Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 633 total · 4/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

If you enjoy the climbing on Godzilla and feel like you're having a Bachar day, this lead is for you. Rock is mostly solid though less trafficked than its neighbors, bolted anchor at the top, a fun route with a mind control component. Gear should be considered ornamental, no solid cracks on this one, or horizontals, for that matter.

Location

Right side of Ultraman wall between Destroy All Monsters and Science Patrol-climb where you feel like, don't miss the occasional pro in the varnish.

Protection

Not much-bring wires, tcus, and skinny slings for the plates-you won't be needing much more. Don't expect the stuff you put in to catch you.

Photos

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Several pleasant lines can be done on toprope but this section of wall is not protectable and the rock is slightly flaky. One can traverse to Rodan's anchor from the Destroy All Monsters line about 20 feet below Destroy's anchor, Class 3. A good candidate for a bolted route. Nov 8, 2014
Cunning Linguist  
  5.7+
A good candidate for getting chopped if bolts appear. As Ed noted, easily set up to TR from the .10a to the left. A bit tougher mentally and move-wise than Scent of an Ultraman. Dec 24, 2014
Cunning Linguist  
  5.7+
Anchor replaced with glue ins in late 2014. Thanks to the ASCA for the hardware, make sure to visit their page and make a donation if you appreciate safe anchors replacing the hardware store junk show and tat that used to be the anchor. Jan 13, 2015