Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,118 total · 17/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 10, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This climb starts 50ft to the right of Ultraman 5.8+. The climb starts in a left facing corner in black varnish. A small piece can be placed to protect getting to the first bolt. Follow a total of 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The climbing is just a good as Ultraman, and a little more runout. There is groundfall potential between 30-40ft on the route. Be careful.

Rap with to ropes.


Draws, option small cam low on the route


Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
I led this the other day and compared to Clutch Cargo, I thought this one was less secure and more sustained. The route is very long, the bolts are a long ways apart, and the moves are classic palms down slab-I really liked this route. Nov 27, 2006
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+ PG13
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8+ PG13
Superb route but will need some new bolts sometime soon as a couple of them are sticking out from the wall a wee bit. Speed Racer is like Ultraman on the small slabby stuff that's insecure and super fun; great route just don't fall. Maybe a PG 13 rating but no way that is a "X" rating in my book. Awesome Slabba Dabba (must) Do Jan 3, 2007
  5.8+ X
  5.8+ X
I would call this an X if you are not totally competent with 5.6ish climbing (the harder stuff is protected). Also the 2nd bolt B4 the long run-out section is loose. Jan 31, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
The "X" rating is for the ground fall potential between 30-40ft. I remember looking down after clipping the 2nd? bolt and seeing the ground fall potential. A "PG-13" rating is a sandbag on this one. The climbing is easy, but holds do break.

After clipping the bolt at the 30-40ft level, there are enough bolts to keep a "PG-13" or "R" rating.
Jan 31, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8 PG13
5.8 - very nice sustained smearing moves past the last few bolts.

Not an X - remember that the potential for a fall takes into account the difficulty of the climbing - the big runout is quite casual, and actually fun with the runout. I'd be more worried about getting up to the first bolt - after all, the opening gear placement(s) are in sandstone.

2 ropes needed to reach the ground. Apr 15, 2007
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
On Feb 3rd, 2010, the ASCA replaced 8 protection bolts and the anchor (2 bolts) on this route. All new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece with Fixe hangers. Feb 3, 2010
Sol Cantwell
  5.8+ X
Sol Cantwell  
  5.8+ X
This is UBER classic and super run out. With all the safe 5.8's in this place go somewhere else if you are just starting to lead 5.8 or 5.9. A 60m rope will not get you to the bottom if you go all the way to the top, you can walk off to the left pretty easily though. I was FREAKED out. This route does have ground fall potential. Others have said a PG-13 rating.. .I guess if you don't hit your head its PG13 because you only break your leg or back... May 29, 2012
from the hand traverse heading to the first bolt to the top a great sustained route!! great crack at base for belayer pro. runout for sure but lays out nicely. Jan 5, 2013
Cunning Linguist  
I was told by a longtime local that this route was lead on gear before it was bolted. Jan 12, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Thanks, Chris, for the heads up regarding the need for two ropes to descend.

John...many thanks for the update regarding the new hardware. Jan 5, 2017