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Routes in Ultraman Wall

Clutch Cargo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Destroy All Monsters S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ghidorah T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Godzilla S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hex Files, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
MK Ultra T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mothra T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rodan T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Scent of the Ultraman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Science Patrol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speed Racer T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
TR Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ultramagnetic MCs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ultraman S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
Page Views: 424 total · 7/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Jan 12, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Runout face route, basically five protection points in 120'. Steep start above a slot leads to pro behind a giant flake, a solid runout to a bolt , more runout, a clusterf*ck of gear draped over flakes, placed in patina, and/or secured with cardboard and chewing gum (reasonably good piece) to lower angle ground, a second bolt, and a last runout to the anchor.


Starts 15 feet right of Mothra, 15 feet left of Clutch Cargo. Step off of the boulder at a good large nut placement between flakes to begin.


Good gear for initial crux, some solid run outs above both gear and bolts. Rack a full set of wires, cams tiny to .75. Left the bolts uncamoed so there's no trouble finding them on the lead-you don't want to get lost up there. Anchors are easy to access for TRing, which is what anyone with good sense will do. I don't posess that quality and enjoyed the lead. A 70meter allows lowering or TR, no chains on this one yet. Slings and vintage ring in place for rappel as of 1/14.


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On 10/27/2014, I placed chains on the anchor hangers. This is a very nice, sustained, mixed 5.8. Beware of loose rock in last 10 feet below and left of anchor. Nov 8, 2014

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