GPS: 44.05384, -103.36295
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

The north wall of Falling Rock Canyon is where the bulk of the climbs have been established. Most of the routes get sun all day. Some of the routes are purely trad, mixed, or sport. Almost all of which can be accessed form the cliff rim. 

Getting There

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff immediately after turning off highway 44. Follow a trail east from the parking spots for several hundred feet to the cliff side. This trail leads all the way to the canyon rim edge. A large tree grows from just below the rim. This is the top of Garden Party. To the left and the right are several sets of bolted anchors for other various climbs.

From here, either set up a toprope on one of the anchors, or retrace your steps part of the way back towards the car. A faint trail can be seen which leads into a chimney with a chockstone in it. Squeeze through the hole in the chimney to get to the canyon floor, and then traverse over to the base of the climbs to lead them.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Canyon Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
● Russell’s Big Crack
Trad, TR
Main Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
● Garden Party
Trad, TR
Main Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
● Paperboy Centerfold
Trad, TR
Main Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
● Why Be Normal
Sport
Main Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
● Two Bits
Sport, TR
Main Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
● Sex Machine
Sport
Intimacy Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● France By Chance
Sport, TR
Main Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
● Blockhead
Sport, TR
Main Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
● Seams to Go
Trad, TR
Main Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
● Killer Wasp From Hell
Sport, TR
Main Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
● Flatland Fever
Sport
Main Wall
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 7
● Adaptation
Sport
Main Wall
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 4
● Lost Direction
Sport
Main Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
● One Finger Solution
Sport, TR
Main Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Russell’s Big Crack Main Wall
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Garden Party Main Wall
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Paperboy Centerfold Main Wall
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Why Be Normal Main Wall
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Two Bits Main Wall
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
● Sex Machine Intimacy Wall
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● France By Chance Main Wall
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
● Blockhead Main Wall
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
● Seams to Go Main Wall
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● Killer Wasp From Hell Main Wall
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
● Flatland Fever Main Wall
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Adaptation Main Wall
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● Lost Direction Main Wall
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● One Finger Solution Main Wall
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in North Canyon Wall »

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A: Adaptation 5.11- <br> B: France By Chance 5.10- <br> C: Seams to Go 5.10- <br> D: Two Bits 5.9 <br> E: Garden Party 5.8 <br> F: Killer Wasps From Hell 5.10- <br> G: Lost Directions 5.11- <br> H: Paperboy Centerfold 5.8 <br> I: Blockhead 5.10- <br> J: One Finger Solution 5.11- <br> K: Wango T
A: Adaptation 5.11- B: France By Chance 5.10-…
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