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Routes in North Canyon Wall

Adaptation S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blockhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flatland Fever S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
France By Chance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden Party T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Solution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Finger Solution S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seams to Go T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Bits S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wango Tango S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Why Be Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

The north wall of Falling Rock Canyon is where the bulk of the climbs have been established. The aspect of the cliff is south facing, so climbing is good at this wall in the winter, but it can be too hot during scorching summer afternoons. The climbing is mainly on vertical limestone faces with small pockets. Also, there are at least three crack climbs on this face.

Getting There

Follow the directions to Falling Rock under the area description. Then park at the pulloff immediately after turning off highway 44. Follow a trail east from the parking spots for several hundred feet to the cliff side. This trail leads all the way to the canyon rim edge. A large tree grows from just below the rim. This is the top of Garden Party. To the left and the right are several sets of bolted anchors for other various climbs.

From here, either set up a toprope on one of the anchors, or retrace your steps part of the way back towards the car. A faint trail can be seen which leads into a chimney with a chockstone in it. Squeeze through the hole in the chimney to get to the canyon floor, and then traverse over to the base of the climbs to lead them.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Canyon Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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