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Routes in North Canyon Wall

Adaptation S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blockhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flatland Fever S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
France By Chance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden Party T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Solution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Finger Solution S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seams to Go T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Bits S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wango Tango S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Why Be Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,225 total · 7/month
Shared By: Brad Boner on Feb 15, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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This is the hardest route on the North Canyon Wall. It follows the bolted face to the right of "Blockhead". The first bolt is at the very bottom, about chest-height from the ground, and is there just as much for the belayer as the climber to prevent both from tumbling down to the bottom of the canyon in the event of a fall before clipping the next-higher bolt. The first part involves using probably one of the most uncomfortable finger-pockets i've ever encountered, and once past that it really doesn't let up. The climb also includes a cool middle-finger/thumb pinch hold into a pair of small pockets a little more than 1/2 way up, smack in the middle of the face. It's a fun climb, but liable to give you some headachs...


Bolts + anchors


this is a killer route that has some cool akward moves. If your doing this route on toprope i think it goes at 11c/d, if your on lead its pushing 12a. Mar 17, 2007
Joshua Dreher
Bremerton, WA
Joshua Dreher   Bremerton, WA
I would have to say that this route is barely 11b on lead. Just my opinion though... Apr 4, 2007
Agreed, this route is not that hard. Apr 5, 2007
No I'd have to disagree with you guys about it not being that hard. For those people that haven't been climbing long or just aren't that good at it then it's a tougher route. Apr 19, 2007
Regardless of how hard or easy it is for other people; we're referring to how hard it is in comparision to other routes of the same grade. Apr 20, 2007
regardless of how easy or hard it is, I know a good spot for your one finger Apr 21, 2007
ps watch out for the pigeon poo Apr 21, 2007

More About One Finger Solution