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Routes in North Canyon Wall

Adaptation S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blockhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flatland Fever S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
France By Chance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden Party T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Solution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Finger Solution S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seams to Go T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Bits S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wango Tango S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Why Be Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mark Strege
Page Views: 1,380 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brad Boner on Jan 30, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the bolted face just to the left of "France by Chance", and this is a good one. The route involves very specific moves in the first 15-18 feet, and the only rest is on an awkward ledge just to the right of the third bolt. The climbing eases up after the fourth bolt. Anchors were placed 10-12 feet below the rim so jackass vandels can't get to 'em. Mark thinks this one climbs at 5.11a on toprope and 5.11b on lead. So for those of you who want something new and challenging at Falling Rock, this is the one to get on.

Protection

5-6 bolts + anchors

Photos

Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
Looks like this photo of Rick (photo 1 on mar 14) is taken on a route to the right of garden party (see the tree/anchor), if he raps straight down he'll drop over the little "Blockhead" roof. I think this is "one-finger solution" (?) and it does goes at 5.11 and is very sequential and really fun and oh-so-close.... (Thanks Mark!)

Adaptation would be to the left of this climber about 80 feet (near the left edge of the cliff in this photo). And the anchors truly are 10-15 feet below the rim as in Brad's description, not like you see in this photo. You can't get to the anchors of Adaptation by reaching down over the rim unless you're rubber man. You can rap down the Garden Party tree and go all the way to the left (facing the cliff), the last bolts you see are Adaptation, further left will get you into not-so-good rock. May 5, 2006
Kai Segrud
5.11-
Kai Segrud  
5.11-
Is this the route with the yellowish limestone colored hangers or is it the one just to the right of it? It looks like this guy is using the anchors for the yellowish ones but they're so close together.. Apr 21, 2006
Brad Boner  
 
and, oh yes, ditto on the "have fun" part! May 20, 2003
Brad Boner  
 
I definately see your point. But consider this: is a route 5.11a for me because i'm 6'1 and 5.11b for someone 4-6 inches shorter than i am? in many cases, absolutely. in others, not so much. and i can honestly say that i have climbed more than one route that felt a little harder on lead than it did on top rope (and i do mean a little: a/b) because the route is very pumpy and clipping the hangers then the rope while locking off turns the burn on... on toprope you just fire right through... my point is (and i don't think i'm alone here) that route ratings are very subjective... the person who put it up makes a statement of what he/she thinks the difficulty is, and it's up to other climbers to ascend and either confirm/fine-tune the rating... May 20, 2003
A route has no grade when you toprope? I have not done the route yet, but I'm guessing it still has a rating on TR. Some think a route is harder on lead, but it must have a rating (regardless of the method of ascent). Thanks for the information on the route, Brad. May 13, 2003
Brad Boner  
 
If you say so... May 10, 2003
When clipping bolts the route is either 5.11a or 5.11b. A top rope rating can not be applied unless gear is placed. Bottom line is the route is one oe the other!!!!! Apr 11, 2003