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Areas in Falling Rock

Falling Rock Drainage 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
North Canyon Wall 3 / 10 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
South Canyon Wall 0 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Elevation: 4,087 ft
GPS: 44.054, -103.363 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,263 total, 81/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 21, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

Falling Rock is good for a pumpy winter workout, or a forearm burn for an hour or two after work. This area is a limestone walled canyon which stays warm enough to climb in the winter due to south facing rock. There is not a huge quantity of routes, but they are all vertical and less than half a rope length. The parking lot is located at the top of the cliffs, so setting up topropes is very easy, although many routes are bolted. Also, a few cracks are available, so bring a light rack to lead these.

Getting There

Drive four and a half miles out of Rapid City on highway 44 (Rimrock Highway) from the junction of Jackson Blvd and Canyon Lake Drive. As the road curves to the right, watch for a gravel road leading off to the left. Turn on to this road and immediately is a parking lot for the main area, which has the south facing cliffs and the bulk of the routes. If desired, continue another .7 miles to a pulloff on the left with an old blocked off dirt road. Park here for the north facing cliffs, which are better for warm days.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Falling Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garden Party
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paperboy Centerfold
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spermatose
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Bits
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
France By Chance
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blockhead
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seams to Go
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Killer Wasp From Hell
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flatland Fever
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Adaptation
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One Finger Solution
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Garden Party N Canyon Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Paperboy Centerfold N Canyon Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wan… S Canyon Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Spermatose S Canyon Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Two Bits N Canyon Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
France By Chance N Canyon Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Blockhead N Canyon Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Seams to Go N Canyon Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Killer Wasp From Hell N Canyon Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Flatland Fever N Canyon Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Adaptation N Canyon Wall 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
One Finger Solution N Canyon Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Falling Rock »

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8jimi8 Clary
rapid city, SD
8jimi8 Clary   rapid city, SD
would anyone mind guiding for us this weekend? 5/5/2017 ? 6053896532 jimi. i've got gear but i dont know any locals and i'm the only one who knows how to climb. May 2, 2017
Here is the latest and greatest on Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone. There has been another delay on the printing. So Sharpend and I have worked out a deal on the e-books. I am now selling e-books for the same price of $28.00. So if you have prepaid for a book already I will give your contact information to Sharpend and they will send you the e-book link then you will get a hard copy when they arrive. If you want an early e-book, give me your email so I can invoice you and get an e-book on the way to you. If you have any questions on this deal please contact me. Remember 5% of sales through me goes to the local bolt and anchor repair fund. My contact info can be found at blackhillsclimbingguide.com Jul 29, 2011
Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
Mike, how about anchors above "France by Chance"....? Apr 16, 2010
DakotaToni
Rapid City
DakotaToni   Rapid City
LOL! Apr 15, 2010
I knew that tree when it was a mere sapling. Don't be so disrespectful Apr 14, 2010
Ron
I think that would be a great location. Not surprised that the tree is coming down since it's about as old at you are. All things eventually become old and weak! Apr 14, 2010
Well, yeah, how about where the dead tree is? Apr 13, 2010
The BHCC has said they will donate 10 new sets of glue in anchors for falling rock. I will be putting them in to replace the nasty ones on the north wall. Any more ideas on good places for them please let me know.
Mike Apr 13, 2010
Found rope- Someone left a rope at Falling Rock which can be claimed by contacting me with the description Apr 12, 2010
To all Falling Rock Climbers- The Forest Service intends to remove the tree on the edge of the North Wall that is the traditional anchor for a couple of routes. Turns out the roots are rotting, so please don't use this tree as an anchor in the meantime, it should be gone soon.
Apr 12, 2010
Help
Awhile ago I asked for any info on topo's for Falling Rock. Some nice person sent me what they had and I have since lost it. My skills for being organizd in this guide book adventure are being tested to a new level. So if that nice person would please send me the said topo's again I would be forever in debt. Also any information that anybody feels need be in the new Black Hills Limestone book please let me kow ASAP.
Mike Dec 19, 2009
To whom may know
I am putting out a new guide book for Black Hills Limestone due spring 2010. It will include Spearfish, VC and looking at Falling Rock. I do not know the routes for Falling Rock, if anybody can help me out that would be great. This book will have pics of pretty much every wall, not the hand drawn topos like the past. Plese email if you have some input.
Mike Oct 16, 2009
jpferb Ferber
RAPID CITY, SD
jpferb Ferber   RAPID CITY, SD
Does anyone know anything about the bolted route about 25 ft climbers right of "Getting the Bob". this route follows the arete to chains about 10ft below the top. Thanks Aug 27, 2009
Important access issue!
This it to inform all climbers that have or are planning on accessing Victoria Canyon by way of Dark Canyon to boulder or climb NO MORE ACCESS THIS WAY! PRIVATE PROPERTY! It is trespassing if you go in this way no matter where you park. There is another way in by way of Sheridan Lake road when the USFS road opens on May 15th. For more information you can email me through this site. May 8, 2008
Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
Can anyone provide better directions to "Falling Rock Boulder"? I can't see bolts on anything out trher but the regular routes.

from the site directions: "There is a large bolted boulder on the northwest side of the canyon." ...and... "Find this boulder near the North Canyon Rim in between the parking area and the downclimbing chimney. "

I've found a large "candidate" boulder, w/ fist crack up the middle and really smooth high east side, that would make some good top rope climbs (if you're up to it), but I don't remember seeing anchors on top. This boulder is below the overhanging section of the North Canyon wall. Also, does anyone have info on the bolted routes on this overhanging section? May 11, 2005
Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
My friend's car was broken into in daylight (11:00 am) last week while parked at the first pulloff. Don't leave your new cams in the car. May 11, 2005

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