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Routes in North Canyon Wall

Adaptation S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blockhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flatland Fever S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
France By Chance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden Party T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Solution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Finger Solution S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seams to Go T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Bits S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wango Tango S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Why Be Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,304 total · 7/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description [Edit]

Blockhead is on the face just to the right of Paperboy Centerfold (obvious dihedral). Follow bolt line up through face holds and incipient cracks, then pull over a small roof (crux). Follow face holds to a two bolt anchor at the top. This is one of the better face climbing routes at Falling Rock.

Protection [Edit]

Draws for bolts. Also very easy to toprope.

Photos

Brad Boner  
 
I like this route... the clipping stances are a little funky, but once you dial in everything it's a good, pumpy workout... May 17, 2003
LTomer
Wyoming
LTomer   Wyoming
If you think this route was fun, walk along the top or bottom of the cliffs to the west and look for a large overhang (roof). It is a great climb, also a work out. Sep 6, 2006
Joshua Dreher
Bremerton, WA
 
Joshua Dreher   Bremerton, WA
 
Good lead at 10c. Runout a hair but easier climbing in those sections. Sep 13, 2006
Caleb Hansen
Rapid City
Caleb Hansen   Rapid City
to LTomer, would know what grade that overhang goes at, I noticed a couple bolts on the roof but only one set went completely up the wall, are the anchors easy to get too or must it be led first? any info would be much appreciated Sep 27, 2006
To caleb, The roof is about a 11d/12a i think, I dont think there are bolts going all the way up from directly underneath the roof into the face, but there are anchors above it, if you walk along the edge of the cliff from the parking walk until you see the huge boulder at the bottom that has a crack in the middle and there are 2 closed shunt anchors here on top of the wall, they are very easy to get to. Oct 4, 2006
Snake Ferguson
Rapid City, SD
 
Snake Ferguson   Rapid City, SD
 
Blind right side-pull before the third clip brings it all together. Aug 31, 2010
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
for a little change of pace it would be possible to link paperboy into blockhead, get established about 30ft up on paperboy and then traverse right, right below the 3rd bolt of blockhead, clip it and finish for blockhead. the traverse can be protected by a purple c4 if one feels inclined. i aided the line today and haven't done it free but it would probably clock in around 8+/9- Feb 23, 2013

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