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Routes in North Canyon Wall

Adaptation S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blockhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flatland Fever S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
France By Chance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden Party T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Solution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Finger Solution S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seams to Go T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Bits S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wango Tango S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Why Be Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,652 total · 8/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 24, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Paperboy Centerfold is the obvious dihedral about 20' right of Garden Party. A face climbing start leads to sustained fingerlocks and liebacking. There are bolts on top for toproping this climb. An excellent route for getting a pump - especially if running laps.

Protection

Lots of stoppers and small cams. Probably best to toprope because of the flaring crack and soft limestone.

Photos

This is a great climb. Good warm up or last climb of the day. Good moves and good holds all the way up. Oct 4, 2006
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8
A really good route to warm up on. If you pay attention to your feet, you really dont have to lieback much at all. Aug 14, 2007
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.8
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.8
for a little change of pace it would be possible to link paperboy into blockhead, get established about 30ft up on paperboy and then traverse right, right below the 3rd bolt of blockhead, clip it and finish for blockhead. the traverse can be protected by a purple c4 if one feels inclined. i aided the line today and haven't done it free but it would probably clock in around 5.9 Feb 23, 2013

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