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Routes in North Canyon Wall

Adaptation S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blockhead S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flatland Fever S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
France By Chance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garden Party T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Solution S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Wasp From Hell S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
One Finger Solution S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Paperboy Centerfold T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seams to Go T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Bits S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wango Tango S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Why Be Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 837 total, 4/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Killer Wasp From Hell climbs the bulging face just right of Garden Party. The route gets harder and harder as you go up, with the crux moves being about 5 feet above the obvious blank section. Don't get tunnel vision - the best sequence weaves back and forth using semi-hidden pockets.

Excellent and technical pocket pulling on slightly over vertical limestone.

Protection

Quickdraws, bolted toprope anchor.

Photos

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Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10c PG13
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.10c PG13
would like to lead this some day. the first part is moderate climbing. then clip one of the 2 bolts and stay left just avoiding getting completely on garden party. then back right where the big pockets appear and clip the 3rd bolt. if you fell between bolts 2 and 3 it would be really ugly so have this part dialed in. then the crux comes into play on some decent edges/pockets, they all look better when you're below them but aren't quite as positive as i'd hope. do some weaving in and out to the best holds you can find and then gun for the top. Oct 5, 2012
Joshua Dreher
Bremerton, WA
5.10-
Joshua Dreher   Bremerton, WA
5.10-
This route is more like 5.10b or c especially if you weave back and forth. Good lead if you can get over the ledge landing in the runout section. Sep 13, 2006
I apologize, Andrew. I didn't want to be a sandbagger. 10b is just the first rating I was told (maybe 7 years ago). The last time I climbed it was probably about three years ago and I overheard some other climbers calling it a 10d. It's quite likely the route has changed over the years. Remember that big column that used to be wedged up into the dihedral about thirty feet to the right of Wasp Nest? Russle's Crack or something like that? Stuff out there falls off all the time. If you've climbed it more recently than three years ago, I would advise anyone reading this to assume this is an 11.

Happy climbing! Oct 4, 2002
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
I got the 11b rating from the old single page photocopy guidebook that used to float around 8 years or so ago - though my copy is long since lost so it may have said 11a. does that guidebook still exist anywhere?. I've never heard it referred to as 5.10 before, and to me it feels signifcantly harder than any of the 10s nearby.

On the other hand, i'm a lousy limestone climber and i like a good sandbag so 10b it is. Sep 24, 2002
This is probably the most "classic" route at Falling Rock. Local climbers have called it as easy as 10b and this is the first time I've seen someone list it as hard as 11b. (I guess I feel a lot better for having struggled on this route for so long since it was only supposed to be a stout 10.) After you dial the sequence, though, the climb seems easy for an 11. Sep 23, 2002