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Liberty Bell
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Liberty Crack 

5.11- C2

   

FA: 
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine
Consensus: 5.11- C2 [details]
Length: 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V
Season: when the North Cascades Highway is open
Views: 221 page views

Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Aug 9, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: The 3rd class ledge system is clearly visible at t...


Description 

Links:
Excellent route guide.
good topo

route description to come...


Location 

Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of Washington Pass on Highway 20. Walk back toward the pass, look for the pond on the south side of the road. At the East end of the pond, look for the trail heading into the woods. It is often marked with cairns. The Trail will bring you to the East Face of Liberty Bell.

Look to the left side of the East Face. The Liberty Crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof (2 pitches up)on its right side. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack.


Protection 

-1 60 m rope will work for a 1 day ascent. If in doubt, bring a tag line.
-1 set micro stoppers.
-1 set offsets,
-1 set reg. stoppers.
-doubles in TCU's or C3's #00-3.
-doubles in cams to 3"(c4 sizes .5-3).
-one #4 cam is optional. 3 48" slings. 12-16 trad draws.
-1 BD cliffhanger or similar hook is usually called for, but it is very easy to do without (even for inexperienced aid climbers).
-extra biners
-2 alpine etriers
-1 jumar 1 webbing loop, 1 Gri-Gri or similar. for jugging. (This method of jugging makes the Lithuaniun Lip easier to follow.
-or 2 jumars and webbing loops.



Photos of Liberty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
E. Face of Liberty Bell.  Liberty Crack on left of face (climbers visible above Lithuanian Lip on bottom 1/3 left)

E. Face of Liberty Bell. Liberty Crack on left of...

Climbers above Lithuanian Lip.

Climbers above Lithuanian Lip.


Comments on Liberty Crack Add Comment
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By Mark SLC
Aug 27, 2009

First (pitch) on 4th class a little spicy in tennies. Seems obvious in hindsight but scrambling up in climbing shoes probably better. Set up belay below pitch 2.
Also, the 5.10 and 11 sections can be french freed for a long 5.9.
We did the crux aid move w/o a hook. Not needed. But definitely do bring the offsets and micros.
Great (and popular) route, get there early.