Liberty Crack

You can break up the pitches (especially P7&8 below) in various ways, this is what made sense to us while climbing and should match the Cascade Rock

P0 I’d call this section low 5th traversing in from the left, you’ll want rock shoes if scrambling this to then set a gear anchor at the ledges directly below the true P1 crack.  Alternatively go straight up via low 5th climbing to the same point.

P1 (5.10+) A right facing corner then splitter crack leads straight up to a clean a bolted belay shortly below the Lithuanian lip. (Also can be readily aided or tackled in a hybrid approach)

P2 (C2 or supposedly 5.13-) the Lithuanian Lip! Go up and out the roof and get over top and aid through a bolt ladder to a bolted belay.

P3 (C2 or 5.11+) face climbing or aid with fixed heads to a crack and pitons again to a bolted anchor. From here out freeing or french freeing will be fastest for most parties.

P4 (5.10) Jam your way up a nice crack as it hardens from 5.8 to 5.10 till you get to another bolted belay.

P5 (5.8) Continue upward along a corner to another bolted belay

P6 (5.10+) mostly easy climbing stemming up (mind loose rock) to the brief crux of a big block you must surmount your way around right (with a shiny bolt), bringing you to bolted anchors. Crux is easily french free’d, apparently also can aid to the left of the block.

P7 (5.10+) Steep moves off the deck (easily french freed) go up to a ramp/corner. Go up this, clipping a shiny good bolt with a long runner and cutting back right to do some 5.10- moves up over an overlap to a decent seat of a belay you can assemble from two pitons and a small cam or two.

P8 (5.8) go up and left with some fun quartz and then 5.6 chimneys, eventually depositing on a sheltered and treed triangular ledge with a finger crack for anchor.

P9 (5.9) Long excellent pitch up a left facing corner and slab with some beautiful moments of exposure. Can belay by a large tree using it or crack features.

P10 (5.6) Continue up easy terrain until you reach the sandy ledges, taking care to not bomb it up untraveled rock at the end (where a rappel anchor on a tree exists to correct the error in your ways if you do.

Most will be inclined to unrope or simul as your traverse climbers left a while on the third class ledges, noting at the end shiny bolted anchor in somewhat of a alcove for the descent to the Beckey gulley. If you are content to climb and downclimb the sheltered slab of the end of the Beckey route unroped, stash your rope/gear/harness near here and scramble up to the Beckey route and its final pitch to the top. From the bolted anchor two <30m raps on bolted anchors get you to the gully. Otherwise see the Becky route description and comments for an optional initial rappel to get to this point.

See also:

Excellent route guide from Steph Abegg

Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of Washington Pass on Highway 20. Walk back toward the pass, look for the pond on the south side of the road. At the East end of the pond, look for the trail heading into the woods. It is often marked with cairns. The Trail will bring you to the East Face of Liberty Bell.

Look to the left side of the East Face. The Liberty Crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof (2 pitches up)on its right side. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack.

-1 60 m rope will work for a 1 day ascent. If in doubt, bring a tag line.
-1 set micro stoppers.
-1 set offsets,
-1 set reg. stoppers.
-doubles in TCU's or C3's #00-3.
-doubles in cams to 3"(c4 sizes .5-3).
-one #4 cam is optional. 3 48" slings. 12-16 trad draws.
-1 BD cliffhanger or similar hook is usually called for, but it is very easy to do without (even for inexperienced aid climbers).
-extra biners
-2 alpine etriers
-1 jumar 1 webbing loop, 1 Gri-Gri or similar. for jugging. (This method of jugging makes the Lithuaniun Lip easier to follow.
-or 2 jumars and webbing loops.

This route has a range of ratings, depending on how much is aided. A few things to keep in mind:

1) The aid is all clean, and probably will seem like C1. No pins or hooks are needed (unless some fixed piece has come out).

2) With the same C1-C2 aid rating, one can do just up to 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, or 5.11 free climbing.

3) The only completely free ascent was done with a pre-placed static rope, and the moves over the Lithuanian Lip apparently has no recorded repeats.