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Trashcan Rock hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). None of the climbs are super-megaclassics, but it is a popular destination nonetheless. Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes and the accompanying mayhem of beginner groups. Perhaps a good place to avoid on the weekends.
The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.
29 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trashcan Rock:
Featured Route For Trashcan Rock
Hermanutic 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Trashcan Rock - East Face
This crack, just to the left of Butterfly Crack (5.11c), begins with a bulge. Good stances above the bulge make gear placement relatively easy until the dihedral crux section. The crux is very difficult to protect because the crack becomes very shallow. However, the rock is solid and edges are numerous on both sides of the dihedral. Above the crux the crack widens to 2" and takes bomber cam placements. A serious lead on excellent rock (3 out of 5 stars)....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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