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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Quail Springs Area
> Trashcan Rock
> Trashcan Rock - E Face
Hermanutic
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.2 from 17
votes
Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face
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Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.04031, -116.19715 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,840 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Apr 11, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This crack, just to the left of Butterfly Crack (5.11c), begins with a bulge. Good stances above the bulge make gear placement relatively easy until the dihedral crux section. The crux is very difficult to protect because the crack becomes very shallow. However, the rock is solid and edges are numerous on both sides of the dihedral. Above the crux the crack widens to 2" and takes bomber cam placements. A serious lead on excellent rock (3 out of 5 stars).
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