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Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face

Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 728 total, 4/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 11, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This crack, just to the left of Butterfly Crack (5.11c), begins with a bulge. Good stances above the bulge make gear placement relatively easy until the dihedral crux section. The crux is very difficult to protect because the crack becomes very shallow. However, the rock is solid and edges are numerous on both sides of the dihedral. Above the crux the crack widens to 2" and takes bomber cam placements. A serious lead on excellent rock (3 out of 5 stars).

Protection

Small to medium stoppers and small TCU's to 2" cams protect this crack of varying width and depth. Large cams make a solid anchor at the top. An easy walkoff can be found on the west face or north end of the rock.

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