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Toe Jam 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, November 1952
Page Views: 9,784
Submitted By: M.Morley on May 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (372)
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Me climbing Toe Jam with a beautiful J-tree sunset

Description 

From the bulletin board at Hidden Valley Campground, turn around and walk approximately 50' west to the base of the route.

Jam up hand crack for 10', then angle diagonally up and right. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical finger crack (crux) to top.

Belay on gear, NOT the bolted anchor to the right.

Descent: Single rope rappel from 2-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.

Safety Note: I have witnessed multiple parties attempting to toprope the route off of the rap anchors which lie 20' to the right of the route. Really bad idea, as a fall would result in a phenomenal swing to the right.

Protection 

Light rack.


Photos of Toe Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Ahhhh ... approaches at J-Tree.
Ahhhh ... approaches at J-Tree.
Climber on Toe Jam
Climber on Toe Jam
Early morning moon over Toe Jam
Early morning moon over Toe Jam
Kelly up high
Kelly up high
Young Blitzo at grips with "Toe Jam". 19...
Young Blitzo at grips with "Toe Jam". 19...
Toe Jam action
Toe Jam action
Toe Jam from the belay
BETA PHOTO: Toe Jam from the belay
The Old Woman - East Face
BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - East Face
Nathan heading up Toe Jam.
Nathan heading up Toe Jam.
Sketchette nearing the crux of Toe Jam.
Sketchette nearing the crux of Toe Jam.
Myong starting to jam.
Myong starting to jam.
hand jam?
hand jam?
Halloween 05
Halloween 05
Gillian in the upper (crux) finger crack. Photogra...
Gillian in the upper (crux) finger crack. Photogra...
Josh moving up the diagonal flake. Like it!
Josh moving up the diagonal flake. Like it!
Pluggin and chuggin
Pluggin and chuggin
Free Soloist
Free Soloist
Lea enjoying Toe Jam
Lea enjoying Toe Jam
June Goang nearing the top of Toe Jam
June Goang nearing the top of Toe Jam
toe jam
toe jam
Stupid Glasses
Stupid Glasses
Standing at the bottom of Toe Jam
Standing at the bottom of Toe Jam
Christa Cline on the angling crack halfway up the ...
Christa Cline on the angling crack halfway up the ...
Only placed a couple pieces. fun climb!
Only placed a couple pieces. fun climb!

Show All 28 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Toe Jam Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 19, 2014
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 4, 2002

I love this climb. There is absolutely no reason to have an accident on this one - there is great gear every 2 feet if you want it. This would be an excellent beginner lead.
By Randy
Mar 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

FA: Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, 11/52.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
May 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Maybe one move of 5.7 stepping out of the crack on to the little slab. A #.75 cam protects the exit from the crack quite well. All in all, a friendly climb that will leave a smile on your face.
By Kellen Holt
Dec 22, 2004

The route has great gear up until the vertical crack section at the top. A small cam (yellow alien worked for me) can be placed midway through the crack, and its probably the best gear in this section, IMO. A few nut options exist, but I wouldn't say they're the best. However, even if you were to fall here, all the awesome gear below the vertical crack will keep you safe.
By mmurduff
Oct 30, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great gear up the end where I almost always place a small (pink) tri-cam before ending the climb. A must do!
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 4, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I remember leading this route many years ago, and found the (my) nut placements to be a bit wanting on the top crack, but since it was well below my leading ability, I paid little attention to it. Probably best for a leader at the 5.9 grade to feel comfortable about this climb.
By Blitzo
Sep 29, 2006

Pretty fun 5.7.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 8, 2009

Area classic for the grade!
By jj brown
May 22, 2009

Hands down one of the best climbs for beginning leaders. Protection is fairly decent, yet small. Good crack for practicing stopper placements. Climb is sort of a mix of slab and crack climbing. The last bit of the climb is the crux. You hit a vertical crack with limited protection options. I think I got a small cam in there somewhere at the start. Then there is a couple of slabby moves to the top.

The top is where the climb is really awesome for beginner trad climbers. It has everything you could want for setting up an awesome anchor off gear. Perfect horizontal crack that will take some small to medium sized cams, and bomber stopper placements. If you really want the extra back up, throw some slings around the juggy type erosional features just above the crack.

Rap off the rings on the bolts to the climbers right, or easier and somewhat safe, drop the rope into the two gated hooks.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Easy route with a 1 move crux. Good for breaking into the grade. Make sure to belay off gear above the climb(as in the beta above) and not the rap chains or you'll set you second up for a nasty pendulum that the entire campground can see.
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Jun 19, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

While a fun route, I don't support the other opinions of this being an excellent lead for a new beginner. While I felt the lower section protected extremely well, I felt the vertical crack required some good technique and a keen sense of placing gear. Upper gear good, but not great. Wonderful to have had the chance to lead this route today without the hoards of lookie-loos... late-June in Josh!
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One of the most enjoyable climbs, regardless of grade, in JTree. Great crack, takes pro very well.
By kylekapp
Aug 29, 2011

Fun route!! I thought that stoppers did the trick rather nicely on the upper section.
By Vitaliy
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lower section (undercling) has a stuck stopper, huge footholds everywhere. One move before last (at the top) will get your attention if you are not used to trusting your feet (slippery 5.7). Don't get stuck in the crack on that section -- lots of foot/hand holds to be found to the left.
By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Feb 20, 2012

Lead this today if your new to the game like me this route is pretty straightforward in placing Cams. Make sure though if your a beginner you are good at stoppers I found hard to place(although I'm a new trad leader) but the cams were really easy to place. Anchor up top I found my tri-cams worked perfect...
By Climb To Safety
From: california
Feb 15, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A good warmup to do before or after breakfast, especially if camping in hidden valley. Simple, fun traverse, gets interesting at the top. 5.6.
By henrysunset
Mar 29, 2013

First climb of the day. Excellent route follows nice flake/cracks with some great laybacks. The start is a bit awkward but manageable. I really liked the laybacks following the long flake to the right, this part was my highlight of the day.
By Alex Doria
From: San Diego
Aug 25, 2013

Great morning climb, perfect sun and tons of pro
By James Bellamy
Nov 19, 2013

Climbed it today. Fun moves at the top.


youtube.com/watch?feature=play...

The beginning part of the video is not the walk to the climb.
By Brian Chastain
Dec 9, 2013

Fun easy warm up. Good intro to take first timers on.
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 19, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nothing special, but makes for a great first/last climb of the day...not to mention it was literally 20ft from our tent....The entire climb protects well and is straight-forward, especially by jtree standards...