The Prow 

Just got off this over the weekend! Pitch 5 is super exposed and a great spot to bivy. The crux pitch is pitch 2. The super topo gear rack list is right on. The last pitch is really rotten and loose and haul the bags from the trees up and left, not from the tree on the right, as you could accidentally knock loose stuff over the side hurting parties below. This wall is a good one for preparing for El Capitan.

Route condition- Lots of fixed gear on route...Some wires and pins are ready to go but other than that all station bolts and route bolts are good.

Classic Big Wall Route. The route was first ascended by Royal Robbins. It offers a great introduction to moderate clean aid. Super steep and super fun. This route is more exposed than the South Face.

[Bring a] standard Free Rack. Bring some heads and a hammer in case the fixed heads blow.

FA June 1969, Royal Robbins and Glen Denny. Robbins and Mike Covington had started the route but bailed after 300 feet.

See Robbins' account of the FA here, scanned form Summit Magazine, July/August 1970:

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=402023

Robbins took heat after the FA for the 38 bolts placed. Quoting TM Herbert from McNamara/Roper's Supertopo Bigwalls book: "Robbins, Robbins, not you, not you, man. Hell, you'll set a bad example. Pretty soon we'll have guys bolting up blank walls all over the valley." Robbins' response: "But man, it's all a question of the climb being worth it. Worth the number of bolts. Look at the line, man, look at the line."
(The Supertopo Bigwalls book is full of good history, and worth picking up on that merit alone; the topos ain't bad either;).

Great Wall. My first and I lead and hauled every pitch. The "haul bag eating flake" is just that. There are a ton of bat hook holes that I never used once. The only hook I used was my sky hook. Some of the heads look like the cables might go soon but bring a beak to bypass that. All in all a great route and super straight forward.

Climbed this route about 8 years ago. I climbed it again just the other day. The number of fixed pins...especially on pitch 2...has increased significantly. Which begs the question, Why are people nailing on a route that has gone clean VERY easily for over 10 years?
Weird.

@ Greg . . .

Much agreed on the cleaning, did the route last may and noticed the absurd amount of fixed gear on the route. I remember that manky head and thinking if the cable blew anyone without direct gear would be %$#@ed.

Just climbed this a few days ago. There was a dead head on pitch 5. We bypassed this by hooking it with a small Tomahawk. My partner (who is new to walls and had never used a Tomahawk for anything) found this to be pretty straightforward. A short cheater stick would also get you past this easily.