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The Malamute

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Grub Street T 
Hand Jive T 
High Mountain Woody T 
Id T 
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Old Style T 
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Pacing the Cage S 
Paul's Crack T 
Penguins in Bondage T 
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The Malamute  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.6839, -123.1552 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,638
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Oct 22, 2006
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We couldn't figure out how to get to the base of T...

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This cliff is accessed from the same parking lot as the Chief, but is on the west side of the road. Although it is invisible from the road, it's considerably larger than you would expect, with routes up to three pitches. Some very high quality and legendary climbs are here. There are steep crack testpieces as well as more recent bolted slabs.

The cliff is divided into a lower and upper section, with a number of the climbs on the Lower Malamute closed due to the CN Rail right-of-way along the tracks at the base of the cliff.

On most days the Malamute is a windy place, even when the air seems calm on the Chief. It can be cold in the wind if the cliff is still in the shade (until about 1:00pm, depending on the season), even on a hot day.

Getting There 

If coming from the south, park as for the Chief and take the new pedestrian bridge. If coming from the north, there's a parking lot for about ten cars and a trail that takes you to the pedestrian bridge.

From the pedestrian bridge, head up a dirt trail, across the logged area and look for a trail that heads up on to the tree ridge. The trail will lead you to the top of the cliff between the Starr Wall and the Stooges Slab.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Malamute:
High Mountain Woody   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Old Style   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Cider Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Curly   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Larry   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Stefanie's Tears   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Paul's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Caboose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Hand Jive   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Slap and Tickle   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Grub Street   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Crescent Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Penguins in Bondage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Clean Crack   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   
Overly Hanging Out   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Browse More Classics in The Malamute

Featured Route For The Malamute
starting on Oldstyle

Old Style 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North America : Canada : ... : The Malamute
Great right hand facing corner crack. The description in the book says that it is easy than it looks... Felt pretty hard for 5.9. Delicate slab moves using laybacks and poor jams. Sustained climbing for the grade. (Links into Cider Crack 5.9 for the second pitch, or lower back down to do more climbs at the base of the Malamute)...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Malamute Slideshow Add Photo
Caboose. Photo by Blitzo.
Caboose. Photo by Blitzo.
The logged area on the Malamute, looking south fro...
The logged area on the Malamute, looking south fro...
The trail is gone, but you can cross the cut entir...
The trail is gone, but you can cross the cut entir...
We crossed the logged area on the Malamute to scop...
We crossed the logged area on the Malamute to scop...
This is the final log in the "new" trail...
This is the final log in the "new" trail...
A beautiful place. Too bad for the industrial area...
A beautiful place. Too bad for the industrial area...

Comments on The Malamute Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 15, 2007
Everybody: Please read the note about access issues. Also, please note that the more standard approach is to park at the Grand Wall parking lot, cross the road and take the trail over the top of the Malamute. However, just a few weeks ago (March, 2007) much of the top of the Malamute was logged! It's quite a sad sight. More details on this later. I don't have any current information about access to the top of the Malamute in light of this.
By ScottH
Sep 6, 2007
As of 9/1/07, the majority of felled trees have been cleared from the top of the Malamute. It is straightforward to hike through the clear cut using the trail that begins from the parking lot at the chief. For updates on access at the Malamute, refer to this page maintained by the Squamish Access Society:

squamishaccess.ca/News/Malamut...

The logging was illegal and will carry a fine of $1,000-$10,000 per tree. At 1,400+ trees, that adds up pretty quick.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 24, 2014
how can an illegal clearcut like this happen in such a high profile area? Was there a fine? I was there soon after and did not realize it was illegal. There again this weekend and marveled at the 6' tall ferns.