The Malamute Rock Climbing
A beautiful place. Too bad for the industrial area...
This cliff is accessed from the same parking lot as the Chief, but is on the west side of the road. Although it is invisible from the road, it's considerably larger than you would expect, with routes up to three pitches. Some very high quality and legendary climbs are here. There are steep crack testpieces as well as more recent bolted slabs.
The cliff is divided into a lower and upper section, with a number of the climbs on the Lower Malamute closed due to the CN Rail right-of-way along the tracks at the base of the cliff.
On most days the Malamute is a windy place, even when the air seems calm on the Chief. It can be cold in the wind if the cliff is still in the shade (until about 1:00pm, depending on the season), even on a hot day.
If coming from the south, park as for the Chief and take the new pedestrian bridge. If coming from the north, there's a parking lot for about ten cars and a trail that takes you to the pedestrian bridge.
From the pedestrian bridge, head up a dirt trail, across the logged area and look for a trail that heads up on to the tree ridge. The trail will lead you to the top of the cliff between the Starr Wall and the Stooges Slab.
Climbing Season For the Squamish area.
Weather station 1.0 miles from here
33 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Malamute
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Malamute
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Malamute:
Moe 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 60'
Caboose 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rosebud 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Hand Jive 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Grub Street 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The Malamute
Slap and Tickle 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b North America
: ... : The Malamute
A great challenging 10b.I tried to enter this in meters, but it kept turning 50 m to 50 ft.I did the Gonch start which is about 40' below the Woody.Same as Stefanie's Tears start but goes left where ST goes right. Also 5.9. Makes it a 55m pitch.The Woody start is good too, cuts right up thinner crack that a nut tool was needed for cleaning, might be 10a.When you near the View Ledge you can get a cam in the top of the Gonch crack with a long sling, but don't climb to the ledge, head for the left ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Caboose. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Climbing with a View on The Malamute.
Getting set for the big rappel in.
Evening light over Howe Sound from the top of the ...
We crossed the logged area on the Malamute to scop...
This is the final log in the "new" trail...
The trail is gone, but you can cross the cut entir...
The logged area on the Malamute, looking south fro...
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 15, 2007
Everybody: Please read the note about access issues. Also, please note that the more standard approach is to park at the Grand Wall parking lot, cross the road and take the trail over the top of the Malamute. However, just a few weeks ago (March, 2007) much of the top of the Malamute was logged! It's quite a sad sight. More details on this later. I don't have any current information about access to the top of the Malamute in light of this.
Sep 6, 2007
As of 9/1/07, the majority of felled trees have been cleared from the top of the Malamute. It is straightforward to hike through the clear cut using the trail that begins from the parking lot at the chief. For updates on access at the Malamute, refer to this page maintained by the Squamish Access Society:
The logging was illegal and will carry a fine of $1,000-$10,000 per tree. At 1,400+ trees, that adds up pretty quick.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 24, 2014
how can an illegal clearcut like this happen in such a high profile area? Was there a fine? I was there soon after and did not realize it was illegal. There again this weekend and marveled at the 6' tall ferns.