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The Malamute

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Quagmire Crack T 
The Wizard of Id T 
Berrycup T 
Caboose T 
Cider Crack T 
Clean Crack T 
Cling Peaches T 
Crescent Crack T 
Curly S 
Fungus Razor T 
Grub Street T 
Hand Jive T 
High Mountain Woody T 
Jacob's Other Ladder T 
Larry S 
Moe S 
Neighbourhood Bully T 
Old Style T 
Overly Hanging Out T 
Pacing the Cage S 
Paul's Crack T 
Penguins in Bondage T 
Pinky Locks T 
Shallow End, The S 
Slap and Tickle T 
Sparky S 
Stefanie's Tears T 
Stone Cold T,S 
Trailer ArrĂȘt 
Under the Mercy T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Malamute Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.6839, -123.1552 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,983
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Oct 22, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
A beautiful place. Too bad for the industrial area...

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This cliff is accessed from the same parking lot as the Chief, but is on the west side of the road. Although it is invisible from the road, it's considerably larger than you would expect, with routes up to three pitches. Some very high quality and legendary climbs are here. There are steep crack testpieces as well as more recent bolted slabs.

The cliff is divided into a lower and upper section, with a number of the climbs on the Lower Malamute closed due to the CN Rail right-of-way along the tracks at the base of the cliff.

On most days the Malamute is a windy place, even when the air seems calm on the Chief. It can be cold in the wind if the cliff is still in the shade (until about 1:00pm, depending on the season), even on a hot day.

Getting There 

If coming from the south, park as for the Chief and take the new pedestrian bridge. If coming from the north, there's a parking lot for about ten cars and a trail that takes you to the pedestrian bridge.

From the pedestrian bridge, head up a dirt trail, across the logged area and look for a trail that heads up on to the tree ridge. The trail will lead you to the top of the cliff between the Starr Wall and the Stooges Slab.

Climbing Season

For the Squamish area.

Weather station 1.0 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',6],['5.10',13],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Malamute

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Malamute:
Jacob's Other Ladder   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 22'   
High Mountain Woody   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Cider Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Old Style   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Stefanie's Tears   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Curly   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Larry   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Pacing the Cage   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Sparky   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Paul's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Caboose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Slap and Tickle   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hand Jive   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Grub Street   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Quagmire Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Crescent Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Penguins in Bondage   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Neighbourhood Bully   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Clean Crack   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 90'   
Overly Hanging Out   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Malamute

Featured Route For The Malamute
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay on the Grub Street complex

Grub Street 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : The Malamute
A long, engaging pitch.... Actually, for us it was two pitches as I ran out of slings so I just built a belay towards the top. We linked this after climbing Old Style and Cider Crack (which gets 10a in Mclanes new book, and I agree). An awesome link up!Off the belay ledge clip a bolt and then follow good cracks up and right. Eventually, a delicate traverse left leads to a seam (crux? small HB offets), through a small roof, and back to an undercling right.I clipped the bolt high on the fa...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Malamute Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Caboose. Photo by Blitzo.
Caboose. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: We crossed the logged area on the Malamute to scop...
We crossed the logged area on the Malamute to scop...
Rock Climbing Photo: The logged area on the Malamute, looking south fro...
The logged area on the Malamute, looking south fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: The trail is gone, but you can cross the cut entir...
The trail is gone, but you can cross the cut entir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Evening light over Howe Sound from the top of the ...
Evening light over Howe Sound from the top of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the final log in the "new" trail...
This is the final log in the "new" trail...

Comments on The Malamute Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 15, 2007
Everybody: Please read the note about access issues. Also, please note that the more standard approach is to park at the Grand Wall parking lot, cross the road and take the trail over the top of the Malamute. However, just a few weeks ago (March, 2007) much of the top of the Malamute was logged! It's quite a sad sight. More details on this later. I don't have any current information about access to the top of the Malamute in light of this.
By ScottH
Sep 6, 2007
As of 9/1/07, the majority of felled trees have been cleared from the top of the Malamute. It is straightforward to hike through the clear cut using the trail that begins from the parking lot at the chief. For updates on access at the Malamute, refer to this page maintained by the Squamish Access Society:

squamishaccess.ca/News/Malamut...

The logging was illegal and will carry a fine of $1,000-$10,000 per tree. At 1,400+ trees, that adds up pretty quick.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 24, 2014
how can an illegal clearcut like this happen in such a high profile area? Was there a fine? I was there soon after and did not realize it was illegal. There again this weekend and marveled at the 6' tall ferns.

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