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Routes in The Malamute

Quagmire Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Wizard of Id T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Agonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berrycup T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caboose T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Canadian Compromise T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chasing Rainbows T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cider Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clean Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cling Peaches T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Consolation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crescent Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curly S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fungus Razor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grub Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hand Jive T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Mountain Woody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love the Smell of Nuprin in the Mornin T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jacob's Other Ladder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Larry S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neighbourhood Bully T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Need But a Little Parsley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Old Style T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overly Hanging Out T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pacing the Cage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paul's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Penguins in Bondage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pinky Locks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rosebud T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shallow End, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap and Tickle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sparky S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stefanie's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stone Cold T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trailer ArrĂȘt V1 5
Under the Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
With Friends Like That Who Needs Enemas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ya Gonna Do Something or Just Stand There and Bleed S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Peter Croft, Robin Barley, 1978
Page Views: 194 total, 7/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Aug 6, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

yet another excellent route at the Malamute. It was graded 10d originally, feels more 10c to me.

Pitch 1) begin on Old Style, veer off on bolted dyke till you reach the ledge, crux between 1st and 2nd bolt and reaching crack, old bolts ( 3 ) and some gear, not too dirty seldom climbed. ( original start was straight up from bog further right, never climbed)

Pitch 2) 4 star 10c pitch, starts at far right end of ledge with a glue in U-bolt. traverse right, pass cedar, bolt, pull though roof on good holds, thin crack up to Midway ledge.

Pitch 3) move to your left and start up crack to small ledge, traverse on slanting crack right with several bolts ahead, traverse left till gaining thin seam ( crux), good finger crack above till at base of Stooges slab (10c) This is also described as a pitch of the "Grub St. Connection".

Pitch 4) Rosebud was the original finish and only route on this slab in 1978 with no bolts (bolts added later), it is the 3rd line from the left with Moe on the right. The chain anchor above is on this route. We did the Curly finish furthest left with 6 bolts.

Location

furthest right on the Grub Street wall.
Starts on the Old Style 5.9 ( where the tree bridge crosses the tide pool pond)
Rap stations all the way down the wall, starting on one of the Stooges anchors.
One can also approach the base from the south side trail ( start near 99 pedestrian bridge, make left where other trail goes up sandy hill.

Protection

standard rack to 2", mostly finger size. All bolted anchors

Photos

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