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North (Left) Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Full Rubber Mission S 
Glenda S 
Grendel S 
Jabberwocky S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Rumplestiltskin S 
Straight On Til Morning S 
Technowitch S 
Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 
White Witch S 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Duran
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,742
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Hagen moving into the route's crux of steep and sm...

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>


A super enduro-fest with a high crux. There's two ways to go about it- the short person version and the long person version. Taller people head right to the hold on Straight On Til Morning and shorter people generally go straight up.


This is the first route on the north side of the tower, starting from the left. Shares a start with other routes on the wall.


Lots o' bolts to sport anchor.

Photos of Technowitch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dark storm clouds serve as a dramatic background t...
Dark storm clouds serve as a dramatic background t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steph working Technowitch.
Steph working Technowitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Barely sticking the final throw. Photo by Beth C.
Barely sticking the final throw. Photo by Beth C.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clean falls on Technowitch. This was my favorite r...
Clean falls on Technowitch. This was my favorite r...

Comments on Technowitch Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2006

This is not really a "super enduro" pitch. Rumplestiltskin 12a (70-80 feet long) which is a three bolt lines right doesn't have as powerful a crux but it is an endurance problem. Techno (50 feet long) only has 20-25 feet of pumpy climbing. The start can be done by starting on the second line of bolts but most people start this route on the first line of bolts on the left side of the wall. It is still a good route and worth doing.
By WSnyder
Mar 27, 2006

FYI the FA was done by John Duran
By Amy Jordan
Mar 17, 2007

I love this route because of the big dynamic move at the top (well, I'm short...maybe not everyone does a big dynamic move there). Four stars from me.
By Dave Wachter
Feb 26, 2008

I agree - the dynamic crux near the top is one of the best sequences on the tower, and the last bit to the anchors is nearly as cool. However, the first 2/3 of the climb is maybe 5.11, with a huge ledge in the middle to have a snooze on. A fun intro to the tower, with good clean falls. 3 stars.
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Aug 15, 2008

it is the second route on the right and a favorite 1st 5.12a for many people.
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 5, 2013

I liked this the best out of all the lines I got on while at The Tower. Golden Stairs was a close second. It cruises up to a crux section which involves a large throw or thin crimps depending on your style. Really fun safe whippers high off the ground! I thought this route was actually easier than Once Upon a Time which called for much more endurance.
By Heathennation
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Awesome climb, shaded for a good bit of the day. Just manage to stick the right hand jug up high and you'll be at the chains in no time.

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