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Super Slide 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gene Drake, Rex Spaith, 1971
Page Views: 7,662
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (145)
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Liz on the beautiful 4th pitch.

Description 

1. Climb the groove 5.2, into a 4th class ramp, follow this and then some dirty climbing up on a large ledge and triple bolt belay.

2. Climb directly up above the belay until a delicate rising right traverse (no pro) allows a good crack to be gained. Follow this, until you can scramble under a tree onto a ledge and belay.

3. Follow the ledge left and then climb good cracks up to a hanging bolt belay. This is the first of 3 good pitches.

4. Continue up the crack system until an obvious step right can be made where the cracks continue up to the belay.

5. This last pitch is a good one. This climb saves it very best to the very last few moves. Climb up until a nice finger crack allows progress up and onto the belay.

Descent is via Rappel. Rappel to the 3rd belay. From there Rappel to a tree with a rappel slings, and from there to the bottom. These rappels need double ropes.

Location 

Located on the left hand side of the Royal Arches Area. 200' up and left from Serenity Crack.

Protection 

standard Trad rack 1-2 sets nuts, 1-2 sets cams.


Photos of Super Slide Slideshow Add Photo
Bill Griffith jamming through the crux on the fina...
Bill Griffith jamming through the crux on the fina...
Approaching the 3rd pitch belay stance on Super Sl...
Approaching the 3rd pitch belay stance on Super Sl...
money pitch
money pitch
Liz approaching the belay atop Pitch 2.
Liz approaching the belay atop Pitch 2.
starting P3
starting P3
Combining P3 & P4 is definitely the way to go!
Combining P3 & P4 is definitely the way to go!
Two people on the penultimate pitch of super slide...
Two people on the penultimate pitch of super slide...
Liz on the final (5.9) pitch.
Liz on the final (5.9) pitch.
Starting up P3/P4 connected.
Starting up P3/P4 connected.
Gregory heading up pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: Gregory heading up pitch 5.
John Ely leading crux finger crack on final pitch ...
John Ely leading crux finger crack on final pitch ...
Cool guys from LA cruising the start of P5.  Notic...
Cool guys from LA cruising the start of P5. Notic...
Super Slide
Super Slide

Comments on Super Slide Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2014
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you traverse to the left end of the ledge at the end of the 2nd pitch and belay from there, you can run the 3rd and 4th pitches together with a 60-meter rope. This lets you skip the hanging belay, which you will discover on the rappel down is a very uncomfortable place to hang out. Better to skip it if you can.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 31, 2007

A good, fun romp that has some very loose rock, particularly on the last pitch before you gain the clean splitter. Careful what you pull on, I almost dropped a basketball sized chunk onto my belayer before gingerly putting it back in place.

Agree that linking the first two off of the ledge (also covered in loose rocks) is the way to go.

Great route in spite of the patches of loose stuff, and perfect if you're pushing into the grade. Stays in the shade behind the Ahwahnee Buttress until late morning.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 20, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Combining pitches 3 and 4 make for an incredible 180' pitch!
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 9, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Correction to the Supertopo: the bolt anchor indicated atop P1 (p. 123) is gone. Instead, build an anchor in the 5.7 thin crack to the left.
By MarkGriffin
From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
Jul 22, 2008

  • combining pitches 1&2 (60m rope) gets you to the goods faster. Saw no sign of the p1 anchor so just kept going. A 60m rope barely makes it to the first tree on this ledge. Bring some runners if combining these two pitches.
  • agreed that the hanging belay at top of p3 is uncomfortable. Wish we had linked with p4.
  • DO THIS ROUTE! It's so money.
By TinCrow
From: Ca
Dec 2, 2008

We were able to link Pitches 1&2 with a 70 meter rope. We also shifted the belay over on top of pitch 2 and Linked pitches 3&4. From the top of pitch 5 we rapped w/ 2 70M ropes to pitch 3 anchors, then 1 more rap to the gully you started the climb in.(requires some down climbing 20ft')
I lost my wedding ring at the base of Supe Slide or Trial by Fire. Its a silver ring, let me know if you find it. Thanks
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 20, 2009

Great climb! P3,4 and 5 have some great crack. I would not recommend the alternate 5.8 start (Trial by Fire). I don't think the couple of parties in front of us would recommend it either...
By Sheets
From: Livermore, CA
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I did this for the second time & led every pitch. Linking p3 & p4 really makes it one of the funnest pitches I've done in a good while. Quality climbing. The 5.9 at the top reminds me of a shorter, lower angle version of the splitter absolutely free. Wish it was longer.
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 28, 2009

Objective hazards: The red biting ants that caused us much misery on the East Butt of Middle Cathedral Rock are all over the two lowest rappel stations. Try to avoid squishing them at any costs since, we hypothesize, the noxious smell causes the rest to swarm.

Gear: We saw three mangled metolius cams (orange and yellow) on the top pitches. We did it on camalots and had no issues (bring doubles on the .5s and .75s and plan to bump), but if you climb on metolius, just be wary.
By John Ely
From: DC
Oct 13, 2009

Note that in late Sept 2009, there was a lot of rock fall in the area. We planned to top rope the face climb after our rappel, but got to the bottom and discovered that some 150 pounds of grapefruit sized granite chunks had hit both our packs and cut up our open rope bag. The route seems safe after the first, ground belay, be be careful at the beginning.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jun 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great linkup with Trial by Fire to avoid the boring approach pitch. Lower section is a bit dirty & forgettable but the final 5.9 section is SWEET!

P4 & the belay above was pouring with water when I did the route this May. P5 was dry at the crux though. Sunshine did manage to burn off the water on the route.

On Trial by Fire my second noticed a grapefruit-sized rock fall near him and it was NOT from a climber above.
By Owen McGrath
Jan 10, 2012

Anyone have any beta on rapping the route with a single 70M rope, stopping at the anchors on pitch 4 on the way?
By Owen McGrath
Jan 17, 2012

Climbed on 1/15/11. Beautiful, and totally worth the two boring first pitches. 1st anchor bolts are gone. Pitches 3-4 linkup beautifully. Crux on P5 is spicy wide fingers for a short while at the very end. Otherwise very manageable, and rather soft for valley 5.9.
By Ryan M
Apr 19, 2012

Did this route twice over the summer of 2012 and it was great!

Just a word of advice, while pulling the rope from the first double rope rappel, out line snagged on a sort of knob directly plumb from the top anchors. I'm not sure if this is dumb luck but this happened on both occasions, being especially obnoxious since my we had to climb to unstick the rope each time. In the future I will probably rap to the top of 4 first to avoid this.
By Cimbing Ivy
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

climbing with a 70m, totally recommend linking P1+P2, P3+P4 and P5 as a single and climb as 3 long pitches! mellow climbing with sweet sections of clean splitters (albeit too short like a tease). i'd say no single move of 5.9 on the entire climb - it sure feels a full number grade easier than Dream Easy just to put it out there.

rappelled with a single 70m (5 raps) with no problem: on your 3rd rappel, you rap back to the tree at the base of P3, then walk across the ledge to the tree on top of P2 to set up the next rappel. your 4th rap takes you down to the huge ledge where you scramble down to skier right for a set of (rather new shiny) anchor with quick links. from there a single 70m takes you down to the ground (go climber left to reach the uphill ground. if you rap straight down, you would be 2 meters short and end up on some 11c slab. tie knots for safety!) happy single rope climbing :)
By Eric Gabel
Mar 26, 2014

The new shiny anchors that Climbing Ivy mentioned are the anchors for a new direct start to Super Slide. Start about a hundred feet down hill to the right of the normal start of Super Slide. There are two starts, left is 5.8 and the right is 5.10a with two bolts. For the left start take pro: thin cams .4" to 3" . Same for the right, but add a 3 1/2" and 4"" piece. Climbs mostly nice cracks to the big main ledge on top of the first pitch of Super Slide. This start avoids the 4th class regular start and is more consistent with the climbing above. Between the two starts is a short bolted slab that is probably 5.11? and goes to its own anchor 70' up. When rappelling, this anchor makes it easy to get off of Super Slide with a single 70m rope with out having to swing to the side as Climbing Ivy mentioned.

- Eric Gabel
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 12, 2014

Super fun alternative to its very popular neighbors! Rope solo'd it with a 70 meter rope and a single rack (double BD 1's) and was completely dandy. Decided to do the "Trail by Fire" off width variation which added a great start to an already awesome climb. The two 5.6 pitches after "TBF" were a little meandering and "so-so" climbing but fun nonetheless. It adds three more pitches making for a fun full day in the sun! The last ten feet of Super Slide are worth all the work! SUPERRRR!!!!!