BETA PHOTO: Just entering the wider, somewhat flared, crack sy...
Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.
P1 (5.7) As for Mithral. P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right. P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay. P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'. P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.
We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.
This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!
There are options. You can actually bypass the crux by traversing left into the crack using a knobby bulge for feet (no harder than .9). About 2/3 of the way up the face you can traverse into Mithral and, if I remember right, climb that route's last 40ft or so. If you have only one day on the mountain, I think Mithral is a much cooler climb.
I'm confused! Did I edit my own comment (two above), or did an admin? I love me some mountain proj, but whoever edited my comment... just let me know if you're slurping my beta, then delete the comment. Then I can tell if I forgot my meds, or if something else happened.
Excellent handcrack, one of the best pitches I've climbed in the Sierra. You can do Mithral and Star Trekkin both in a day by climbing Star Trekkin first and then rapping Mithril, then climbing back up it to get your gear. I put a TR up here, hopefully it's helpful: pullharder.org/2012/03/22/how-i-started-crackin%E2%80%99-on->>>