All Locations > California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Russell

Star Trekkin'

Name: Star Trekkin'
Rating: 3.5

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Mount Russell

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bloody Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Coyote Crossing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	East Arete T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Fishhook Arête T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Goldbug T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mithril Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	South Slope T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Star Trekkin' T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Western Front T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	36.58999, -118.29099
FA:	Alan Bartlett & Robb Dellinger, 1978
Page Views:	16,704 total · 69/month
Shared By:	ttriche on Mar 14, 2006
Admins:	Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year Details

Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.

Description

Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.

P1 (5.7) As for Mithral.
P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right.
P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay.
P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'.
P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.

We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.

Location

This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!