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Mt. Russell
Routes Sorted
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Bloody Corner  T 
East Arete T 
Fishhook Arête T 
Mithril Dihedral T 
South Slope T 
Star Trekkin' T 
Western Front T 

Star Trekkin' 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett & Robb Dellinger, 1978
Season: summer
Page Views: 8,611
Submitted By: ttriche on Mar 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Just entering the wider, somewhat flared, crack sy...

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  • Description 

    Not as clean as the Mithril, but more thought provoking -- crux is a delicate bearhug-lieback type of affair just prior to moving into the roof.

    P1 (5.7) As for Mithral.
    P2 (5.8+ funky )As for Mithral, stop short of roof on platform to the right.
    P3 (5.10- ~120') Climb through roof, continue until you are tired or run out of gear. The roof is the crux, described else where as a "bear hug", this is either a straight jam and/or stem to 2-3 finger locks. What worked well for us is a 120' pitch to a mostly hanging belay.
    P4 (5.9 ~120') Straight up through 5.9 climbing which is not too sustained. Basically a few moves to a rest, then repeat. An excellent belay stance on large holds is reached in approx. 120'.
    P5 (5.9 ~100') More of the same with about 10-15' of a wider crack before an easy corner. Pop out on a large flat area to belay.

    We then did a pitch directly to the ridge line and belayed. Then another long (300-400') pitch of simul climbing with definite DFU sections.


    This route follows the obvious splitter crack system about 20 feet left of the Mithril Dihedral, heads through a roof, then featured rock and jamming to the ridge, and proceeds along the summit ridge to the top. Descent is as for the Mithril Dihedral -- follow the cairns carefully!


    Alpine rack, extra hand-sized pieces and nuts.

    Photos of Star Trekkin' Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flex following pitch 3
    Flex following pitch 3
    Rock Climbing Photo: Splitter!  Photo Credit: Maria B
    Splitter! Photo Credit: Maria B
    Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay Star Trekkin'
    BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay Star Trekkin'
    Rock Climbing Photo: Harz leading the money pitch.
    Harz leading the money pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick busting the final OW moves to the west rid...
    Patrick busting the final OW moves to the west rid...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Harz pulling through the crux bulge.
    Harz pulling through the crux bulge.
    Rock Climbing Photo: splitter
    Rock Climbing Photo: splitter
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on Star Trekkin'. After pitch 3 or 4....
    BETA PHOTO: Looking down on Star Trekkin'. After pitch 3 or 4....

    Comments on Star Trekkin' Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Charles I.
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 17, 2008

    Isn't there some options at the top? Heard you can traverse over to Mithril, head into an offwidth or do some scary 5.11 stuff.

    Anyone have a recommendation?
    By clustiere
    Jul 30, 2008

    just follow the obvious line the OW is not bad, good for ya if you plan on doing keeeler. Great climb!!! bring smallest aliens for the crux.
    By Murf
    Sep 17, 2008

    Murf's comments posted into the route description - thanks Murf.
    By PumpkinEater
    From: Sacramento
    Jul 16, 2009

    There are options. You can actually bypass the crux by traversing left into the crack using a knobby bulge for feet (no harder than .9). About 2/3 of the way up the face you can traverse into Mithral and, if I remember right, climb that route's last 40ft or so. If you have only one day on the mountain, I think Mithral is a much cooler climb.
    By Murf
    Mar 15, 2010

    I'm confused! Did I edit my own comment (two above), or did an admin? I love me some mountain proj, but whoever edited my comment... just let me know if you're slurping my beta, then delete the comment. Then I can tell if I forgot my meds, or if something else happened.
    By Zoom Loco
    Mar 22, 2012

    Excellent handcrack, one of the best pitches I've climbed in the Sierra. You can do Mithral and Star Trekkin both in a day by climbing Star Trekkin first and then rapping Mithril, then climbing back up it to get your gear. I put a TR up here, hopefully it's helpful:
    By C Miller
    Apr 16, 2014

    By The Climbing Doctor
    From: Santa Monica, CA
    Jun 29, 2014

    I had heard a lot about the different variations to end Star Trekkin. If you go up and left then you climb “5.10 dirty offwidth” or if you continue high right then you traverse “5.11 sketch.” This is why we brought extra small gear and 3.5 and a 4 camalot. In retrospect they were pretty useless on the route. I set up a belay had an obvious exit point towards Mithral Dihedral. The exit was a traverse with about 10 feet of easy class 5. It was a cruiser finish into the final pitch of Mithral. You can find the photo of the traverse here:

    Climbed 6/28/14 C2C in 17.5 hours.
    By Mark SLC
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Oct 14, 2014

    Amazing route! I think the OW is the way to do it, a good battle with the altitude. Takes good gear. When you get to the obvious spot where you can make easy moves right into the Mithral corner stay left and give 'er. The "5.11" alternative looked like sparse protection and would be a bit spicy in comfy shoes. Didn't try it though so can't comment much. Moving into mithral isn't doing the whole route as the OW or the alternate are harder than the "crux" down low on the route. Prob more like 10- that way but still a blast I'm sure if OW isn't your thing. Also, a third #2 and 3 Camalot would make for faster anchors as there are sections where you can go for a long ways until running out of gear and crack stays pretty parallel in sections. My $0.02

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