|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 790'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Mike Shannon, Cam Robertson, Jeff Sherstobitoff|
|Season:||Late Spring - Fall|
|Submitted By:||Mike Stripes on Aug 18, 2010|
|Comments on SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World||Add Comment|
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Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
|Can't comment on grades or quality yet as the slabs were soaking wet today due to thunderstorms, but there is a massive ground wasp nest on the new trail, about 200m from the pavement just where you start to get into the forest.|
From: Pala, CA
Sep 3, 2010
|Thanks for the heads up about the wasp nest|
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Climbed this rig on Thursday Sep 30.
Belay station below the UFO was in a slime streak and UFO cracks were oozing water. We climbed the broken rock to the right and then traversed to the station above the UFO, about 5.6 this way with decent pro but hard to build an intermediate station so best simulclimbed.
Last 5.8 pitch was also soaking wet with two separate wet streaks so we built gear belay (#2 and #3 Camalot) up and left of the 13th station and then climbed up and left into the choss-gully and on up to the same ledge the 14th pitch finishes on.
Not as sustained or quality a route as Speedway and the rock is not as good, but still a pretty good climb overall. Gearwise we used 6 cams from finger size to #3 Camalot, double ropes, and two small-med nuts. n many of the easier pitches the bolt placement is somewhat random and it is easy to go station to station without seeing or clipping anything between.
From: Tonasket, WA
Aug 30, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
8/27/12 - Daughter and I camped in the forest at the base (hidden from the sight, if not the sound, of the trucks and highway) - blueberries plentiful.
8/28/12 - climbed 12 pitches before rapping the route due to threat of rain. Very enjoyable, and we much appreciated the hard work put into the approach trail and the belay stations. The climbing is a bit inconsistent though (lots of easy ground, and a line somewhat contrived in spots), and definitely runout... We also felt the ratings are soft (which was a relief given the lack of pro) and unreliable (which just added to the adventure I guess).
P1 - fun start, good pro, (5.3 not 5.4)
P2 - runout (5.3 not 5.4)
P3 - good pro (didn't notice any SOMWOW, 5.2 not 5.6)
P4 - mostly runout (5.0 not 5.4)
P5 - runout, daughter seconded this 'hands free' (5.2 not 5.4)
P6 - probably runout, but the details blur...(5.3 not 5.5)
P7 - runout - one bolt, hanger smashed but able to be threaded with thin runner, (didn't notice any SOMWOW, 5.3 not 5.5)
P8 - somewhat runout - especially top wet/slick area before station, which seems like it could have been placed somewhere better (5.3 not 5.4)
P9 - We avoided the SOMWOW move because it seemed contrived (scary high step onto the UFO face), instead continued up right side/right facing corner, with good pro; more consistent seeming with rest of route. (5.4 not 5.7)
P10 - runout (1 bolt hanger smashed down, but thread-able, 5.5)
P11 - fun, interesting varied climbing (3 star). Somewhat runout but with good #1 and 2 cam placements in middle polished band (5.6 not 5.7)
P12 - Lots of good pro, interesting varied climbing (5.6 not 5.7)
Here we decided to bail due to rapidly building clouds. Next pitch looked similar to P12 (not sure what 5.8+ would mean up there though), then it continued into the broken and vegetated upper slope. It took us 5 hours to climb 12 pitches and 2.5 to descend them. Overall I'd rate this a 5.6 R ** route - fun experience for the amount of climbing, views and vast expanse of clean granite. (But I kept thinking how good a steeper, more bolted line would be going up the slab to the West across the runoff gully...)
Gear needed - full range of cams from #00 to #3 Camalot (a couple of small/medium stoppers and tricams were used but are not essential), plus 6 medium draws, 6 shoulder length slings, and 2 double slings, and an extra rope for the descent.
By Nick Barnwell
From: Bellevue, WA
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Summited 7/31 after a failed attempt the day prior. Climbing time to top of P15 was ~nine hours, with several lengthy breaks during. Car-to-car in just under 15 hours.
Climber's trail was extremely overgrown at the start and almost impossible to discern from the road as described in Route Info. To save others from our mistake of taking the Yak Crack/Reality Check trail roughly 1km up the road, we recorded a GPS track: gaiagps.com/public/0IpZGKHFFmH...
With the exception of P8 all pitches were climbed as described in topo; up to P9 was mostly roped slab scrambling with little need for your hands. 5.- would be a fair grade for these. Strong parties could easily simulclimb or solo.
RE: Safety - "Slightly runout" is an understatement; we couldn't find half of the bolts described, and had multiple pitches with only a single placement. P13 is genuinely scary with even the slightest hint of moisture.
Rack was pink+brown tricams, single C4s 0.5-4, C3s 00-2, .2 and .1 X4s, and a set of nuts. C3s and nuts could have been left at home; they never left the harness. Highly recommend bringing a #3.5 or #4. We brought a second rope in case we had to rappel and wouldn't countenance climbing the route without one. Even a spritz of rain would render otherwise trivial portions extremely difficult.
Anchors for P8 were difficult to find and between large wet streaks. We built a gear anchor up and to the right on the broken rock band and then traversed/scrambled down to set up the belay for P9.
The crux of P9 was wet and sketchy. It looked like you could go around to the right and join back up at the anchors without too much trouble or rope drag. 5.7 felt fair for the one mantle.
We could not find the first bolt on P13 or P14. Stay right on P13 - I went up left to try and place intermediate pro in the flowered crack but couldn't find a placement, and the face was extremely polished traversing up towards the second bolt. I typically don't mind runout and had quite the scare on this.
Stayed too far right on P14 and made it a fair bit more difficult than it should've been. Not sure where the 2nd bolt mentioned could've been, but anchors were near to where it seemed it should be.
We chose to continue up towards the summit and do the walk-off rather than rappel. The scrambling is exposed and wicked chossy. Safety-conscious parties (and especially those without approach shoes) may want to remain roped up for the first section past P15, which is 5.Fun gravel masquerading as rock.
From the summit, the descent is on the North face. Follow the cairns down and across the gully towards the Yak Crack trail. Including scrambling and failing to find the proper trail down, the descent took us ~4 hours.