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Routes in Yak Peak

Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 14 pitches, Grade III
FA: R. Cox, J. Benetto, 1985
Page Views: 3,225 total, 32/month
Shared By: Dru on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

The first route on the main face, and still a classic climb. In recent years, the combination of the lower part of Yak Crack with the upper pitches of Reality Check has become the most popular line as it avoids the loose rock and tricky routefinding on upper Yak Crack.

Follow the obvious diagonal slanting across Yak's southeast face.

Approach: landmark the massive dihedral that the opening pitches climb near. Do not approach the diheadral directly from below: scramble slabs to the right to a ledge, then traverse hard left to the base of the dihedral and a bolted belay.

P1-2 original: climb the offwidth dihedral directly.
P1-2 as climbed now: move left up a small flake from the base of the dihedral to gain a fingercrack over the lip. Follow this for two and a half pitches of 5.6-5.7 to Lunch Ledge.

P 3-4: from Lunch Ledge, move left to gain the start of the diagonal. Follow this back right to a belay. climb over a short vertical step and continue up to a bush.

p5-7: Climb a ledge, move right and climb a left-facing corner. Above, climb a groove an trend right to belay on a pinnacle. Reality Check crosses here.

p8: climb a rotten chimney to belay in an alcove.

p9-10: climb out of the alcove and up the right rib to a cave. variant: climb a 5.11a fingercrack on the right (Hole in My Heaven joins in here)

p11-12. Climb down slightly out of the cave and move right, then face climb back up into the giant dihedral. Follow it to the top past the odd tricky spot.

Continue up easy slabs to gain the walkoff.

Location

Follow the climbers trail to the base (300m/30 min up from highway) and look up and slightly left to see the starting dihedral. The climb begins by scrambling ramps and easy slabs on the right.

Protection

Full rack to 3" with doubles or triples of finger size cams useful. Mostly bolted belays.

Photos

I could be wrong but I think the route length should be 1,600 ft Aug 7, 2015