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Routes in Yak Peak

Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: J. Bennetto, R. Cox 1985
Page Views: 661 total, 7/month
Shared By: Dru on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route climbs the most prominent, central dihedral on the SE face of Yak, between HimH and Madness, to a large blocky ledge at about the level of the base of Yak Crack's upper dihedral and about 150 feet below the top of the face.

The climbing is up to 5.8+, with some wide cracks (bring large cams) and some thin climbing (bring knifeblades and a hammer). Gain the dihedral from the right by scrambling quite a ways up the descent trail and cutting hard left on a ledge that leads to the base of the dihedral. climb 8 pitches to the high ledge. The original ascent retreated from here but the Madness finish can be used (loose 5.9).

Location

The most obvious and longest continuous central dihedral on the SE face.

Protection

Gear to 4" plus thin pitons.

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