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Porcelain Chicken
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | J. Bennetto, R. Cox 1985 |
Page Views: | 1,618 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Aug 14, 2009 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Large Rockfall
Details
There was a large rockfall from Yak Peak on July 28, 2022. The extent of damage to routes or which routes have been affected is not yet known. Until more information is known it's best to stay away from the area. This will be updated when additional details are available.
Description
This route climbs the most prominent, central dihedral on the SE face of Yak, between HimH and Madness, to a large blocky ledge at about the level of the base of Yak Crack's upper dihedral and about 150 feet below the top of the face.
The climbing is up to 5.8+, with some wide cracks (bring large cams) and some thin climbing (bring knifeblades and a hammer). Gain the dihedral from the right by scrambling quite a ways up the descent trail and cutting hard left on a ledge that leads to the base of the dihedral. climb 8 pitches to the high ledge. The original ascent retreated from here but the Madness finish can be used (loose 5.9).
The climbing is up to 5.8+, with some wide cracks (bring large cams) and some thin climbing (bring knifeblades and a hammer). Gain the dihedral from the right by scrambling quite a ways up the descent trail and cutting hard left on a ledge that leads to the base of the dihedral. climb 8 pitches to the high ledge. The original ascent retreated from here but the Madness finish can be used (loose 5.9).
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