Wind Walker

Wind Walker starts on the south face of Yak. Begin on Cardiyak Rhythm, branching right into a diagonal gear corner (pitch 5) after 4 pitches of bolted slab. Currently, the first 4 pitches are CardiYak Rhythm but we are working on 4 new, independent starting pitches. The first new pitch is already complete. 

Pitch 6 starts up a fun finger crack in the slab leading into an enjoyable hand crack. Near the top of the hand crack you’ll encounter your first bit of choss before the anchor. Continue up bolted slab (pitch 7) on great granite heading diagonal towards the large corner system on the east face. 

From the top of pitch 7, the route begins to steepen, taking on a different personality. Face climb up small edges to a beautiful laser cut off width. Don’t be put-off, the wide section is protected by 4 bolts and can be slab climbed on the outside using the crack edge to handrail. The next belay stance positions you directly beside the fantastic corner on pitch 9. This pitch is part of Porcelain Chicken but was overgrown and forgotten until we cleaned it up. 

Climb 50m up one of the best alpine trad pitches in southwest BC. This pitch is now a joy to climb. The granite is solid with tonnes of face holds to stand on while plugging gear.

Above this, continue up the corner where the climbing eases. At the top of the corner traverse right   (bolt protected) to a stance on top of pitch 10. From this belay, traverse further right past two bolts into a short fun crack and shallow corner crux section above. Technical face climbing in the shallow corner leads to a large, chossy ledge. We fixed 40ft of chain handline across "Choss Ledge" to ease the mental burden. Pitch 12 looms over your head here. 

Pitch 12 is the psychological crux. The beginning starts on crumbly rock but soon improves above. The burl factor kicks in as you wrestle your way up into the steep offwidth. Bolts were placed closely through this section. Goes free at 10b (not bad) if you are comfortable tippy toeing over the apple crumble topping. 

Above the off width, bolted face climbing interspersed with crack sections lead up to a nice belay stance below the lower angle summit slabs. Climb a crumbly bolt protected section to solid rock and low angle slabs that lead to the summit in two final pitches.

There are some excellent pitches with crumbly bits  along the way. I read a great quote from Charlotte Tilbury that captures this route: every women deserves a man that ruins her lipstick and not her mascara.

Hopefully this route only ruins your lipstick ;)

Follow the Yak Peak hiking trail to the base of the wall. Turn right here, following the hiking trail to the high point along the base (~120m along the base), and where a rectangular coffee table size rock marks the start area. This is the same start as for Cardiyak Rhythm. 

You can see the first bolt on the slab 20 ft above. Easy slab and scrambling leads up to the first bolt. A snow patch lingers in this area of the base late into June. Often water is flowing down the far right slab late into July.    

~45 mins to reach the start from where you leave the Hwy and start on the hiking trail.

1) 5.6, 55m, 8 bolts. Slab climb past bolts straight up then left, meandering up to the anchor. Bolted belay on sloping slab.

2) 5.8+, 59m, 10 bolts. Climb leftward from the belay arching up right to a small groove. Continue up this to a small steep overlap (crux). Follow bolts to a small ledge. Awkward bolted belay on a small overlap - hanging stance.

3) 5.8, 58m, 6 bolts + 0.5-4 cams. Diagonal up left from the anchor, slab climbing toward [often] wet streaks and an arch feature. Climb the arch feature placing gear. Near its top, don’t follow it left, step right across slab to belay on ledge (0.5-4 C4). Bolted anchor on ledge.

4) 5.8, 57m, 13 bolts. Start left up overlap and steep right facing corner feature. At the top, slab climb to another steep overlap. Clip a high bolt and reach far to a crack jug hold. Pull up into the crack, then slab climbing above. Bolted anchor on slabby stance. 

5) 5.8, 37m, 4 bolts + gear. Take the right line (straight up is Cardiyak). Climb past 3 bolts on the face up into the gear corner. Fun climbing with lots of face holds. As it pinches down, a bolt on the corner marks where to climb up on the slab above. Bolted anchor on slab.

6) 5.8, 41m, 2 bolts + gear. Follow the thin finger crack above, past two steeper bulges. A bolt on the left protects slab moves left into a hand crack. Up this rightward to a low angle chossy area. Cross right. A bolt protects face moves to the belay. Bolted anchor at small stance. 

7) 5.8, 51m, 14 bolts + #2 C4. Straight up slab past 2 bolts. Cross the overlap (#2 C4) on the right to higher slab. Move up right into a small corner. Up this to the top then hard right to a bolt where steeper face holds and slab lead up to the belay. Bolted anchor on ledge. 

8) 5.9, 57m, 13 bolts + gear. Face climb above past 3 bolts to the off width crack. 4 bolts protect the wide section moving up. You can slab climb on the left using the crack to handrail. Exit the top of the crack right through a chossy section then up face. Bolted anchor at small ledge.  

9) 10a, 50m, gear. Step right into the corner and climb up using face holds to stand on while plugging gear. One of the best alpine trad pitches in SW BC! Enjoy. Look for a small ledge on the left 50m up. Bolted belay on small ledge. 

10) 10a, 35m, 5 bolts + gear. Continue up the corner above. At the top, clip a bolt and climb up rightward above the corner (crux), through a chossy area over right to the belay. Bolted anchor on crumbly ledge. 

11) 10b, 37m, 8 bolts + gear. Right past 2 bolts, stepping down slightly into a crack, layback up into a crack/groove. Clip a bolt at the top and step right into technical face climbing (crux). Up to a huge chossy ledge. Handline up chain to belay on right. Bolted anchor on ledge. 

12) 10b, 45m, 12 bolts + gear. Move right, past bolts, tip toeing up the choss pile into the off width. Bolts every ~meter through this section. Better than it looks. Off width narrows down to #2 C4 above bolts. Near the top of the crack/corner look for a large face hold/ledge on the left. Face climb past bolts and short crack sections (place gear) above to a small ledge just above a basalt band. Bolted anchor on ledge.

13) 5.6, 34m, 6 bolts. Climb choss past a bolt above the anchor, through the gap to a flat area. Up the small steeper wall ahead turn sharp right up bolted slab on the crest to the anchor. Bolted anchor on sloping ledge.

14) 5.7, 45m, 5 bolts + gear. Climb slabs angling up left, following bolts. Cross a 5ft gravel gully section joining slab sections. Mostly 5.4 until one move (bolt protected) climbing up a vertical section to the summit. Bolted anchor on ledge.

14 draws, double rack #0.2-3, 60m ropes

Hiking

From the last belay anchor, scramble exposed 4th class on the right straight up, past shrubs, then back left 40m to a flat area in the trees. From here you can put on approach shoes. Continue to scramble back up towards the summit block looking for a sneaky ledge system 6" wide on the northeast face (right side). It's very exposed for 5m. This small ledge systems brings you to the hiking trail. 

Rappeling

Rappel from any anchor with 2 x 60m ropes back down the route. All anchors are belay/rappel stations with equalized 30kN rings. 

There is also a short-cut rappel bail option from the top of pitch 7. Rappel 45 deg angle from pitch 7 anchor down skiers left. Look for another belay/rap chain station behind a small vertical wall (yellow flagging). One more low angle rappel diagonal hard skiers left takes you to dirt in a small catch basin. Scramble up the back right corner of the small basin and traverse to the hiking trail through the bush/trees about 60m (don't go down the first gully).