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Elevation: 5,828 ft 1,776 m
GPS: 49.64565, -121.25893
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,354 total · 196/month
Shared By: Matthew Tangeman on Jul 2, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

Description Suggest change

A spectacular enclave of granite peaks at the northern tip of what's still considered the North Cascades - though in appearance they're more reminiscent of Tuolumne. Access may change as unmaintained roads wash out or become overgrown. The peaks are relatively low elevation and come into season early, but remoteness and commitment ensure they are absolutely alpine. Beautiful options for high bivies abound.

Les Cornes is the most well-traveled peak out there, though technically just a subsummit of Chamois Peak. Steinbok has one of the most impressive walls in the range, with two routes that are supposedly dirty and scary. Ibex Peak has moderate rock routes. Most things out there are seldom climbed, but there are a handful of high quality modern routes recently developed on Les Cornes.

I found the current road access quite different from any other online description or guidebook, my main incentive for posting this here.

Getting There Suggest change

As of summer 2018, mountain bikes or dirt bikes are useful for aiding in the slog up the final few miles of road, currently impassable to cars. High clearance and a saw still recommended to get there.

Make your way to Hope, BC. Continue north on Highway 1 for 27 miles/43.5km, where you cross a large bridge over the Fraser River and take an almost immediate sharp right at a powerline pole in a maintenance yard, possibly marked with an "N" or signed "Nehatlatch". Reset the odometer to zero.

1.7 miles/2.7km - veer right, heading downhill.
3.8 miles/6.1km - go straight through the gate (may be locked, but unlikely as the timber company no longer operates up here to my understanding)
7.0 miles/11.2km - steep left at a wide open intersection. The road narrows and climbs steeply through open clearings and a few switchbacks.
11.5 miles/18.5km - cross big bridge, take a left at a T and soon cross a second rickety bridge.
12.1 miles/19.5km - as of summer 2018, the road is impassable here due to several large washouts and fallen boulders. Park, grab the bikes/start hoofing it. Generally ignore the first couple spurs you see.
13.7 miles/22km - trend left (most well traveled)
15.1 miles/24.3km - trend right on a spur road marked with orange flagging and initially overgrown at the start. If you start to climb steeply and see the valley to your right end up behind you, or end up in a clearcut, you've gone too far. This spur is overgrown and it's hard to believe it was driveable within the past couple years. Soon reach a large stream and a big washout, crossable on a good log. The road makes a big s-curve before a clearing appears on the right, with a fire ring and a great view of the surrounding peaks. This is the "trailhead". You'll begin hiking through the slide alder tunnel, overgrown road 610.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Anderson River Group

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 15
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders…
Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 8
Beckey route/Speedway
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
 7
Clyde and Isabelle
Sport, Aid, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 5
Yak Crack
Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 56
Yak Check
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0
 4
Coquihalla Honey
Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 4
Reality Check
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Springbok Arete
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
CardiYak Rhythm
Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Won… Yak Peak
 15
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
Beckey route/Speedway Yak Peak
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Clyde and Isabelle Yak Peak
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 Sport, Aid, Alpine 10 pitches
Yak Crack Yak Peak
 5
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
Yak Check Yak Peak
 56
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Coquihalla Honey Yak Peak
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
Reality Check Yak Peak
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Springbok Arete Les Cornes
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
CardiYak Rhythm Yak Peak
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Anderson River Group »

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