All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley Area > Yak Peak
Hole in My Heaven
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in Yak Peak
|Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 14 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Denise Radke, Robert Bacon 1993|
|Page Views:||1,347 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Dru on Aug 14, 2009|
DescriptionThis route follows the slim leftmost dihedral on the southeast face of Yak - the first dihedral left of the Porcelain Chicken dihedral. Gain the dihedral from the right as per Porcelain Chicken or from below by soloing up the endless opening slabs as per Madness. Climb four to five long pitches up the dihedral (5.7 through 5.9, some granular rock, gear to 4"). Climb a shorter pitch up the dihedral as it pinches out, to gain a slabby ledge between two large roofs - one below and one above.
Squeezed up in an undignified manner on this shelf between the two roofs, traverse the hanging slab leftwards (the crux, 10a with sparse pro). This eventually leads into Yak Crack's upper dihedral, although it is possible to continue hard left to gain the 5.11a fingercrack variation to Yak Check pioneered by Croft and Foweraker.
LocationFrom the base of Yak below the Yak Crack start, follow the base of the slab up and right until the objective dihedral is visible and have at'er.
Walking off from the top is best.