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> Yak Peak
Hole in My Heaven
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Yak Peak
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All in the Family T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Clyde and Isabelle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Coquihalla Honey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0 |
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East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Reality Check T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft (515 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Denise Radke, Robert Bacon 1993 |
| Page Views: | 3,312 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Aug 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Large Rockfall
Details
There was a large rockfall from Yak Peak on July 28, 2022. The extent of damage to routes or which routes have been affected is not yet known. Until more information is known it's best to stay away from the area. This will be updated when additional details are available.
Description
This route follows the slim leftmost dihedral on the southeast face of Yak - the first dihedral left of the Porcelain Chicken dihedral. Gain the dihedral from the right as per Porcelain Chicken or from below by soloing up the endless opening slabs as per Madness. Climb four to five long pitches up the dihedral (5.7 through 5.9, some granular rock, gear to 4"). Climb a shorter pitch up the dihedral as it pinches out, to gain a slabby ledge between two large roofs - one below and one above.
Squeezed up in an undignified manner on this shelf between the two roofs, traverse the hanging slab leftwards (the crux, 10a with sparse pro). This eventually leads into Yak Crack's upper dihedral, although it is possible to continue hard left to gain the 5.11a fingercrack variation to Yak Check pioneered by Croft and Foweraker.
Squeezed up in an undignified manner on this shelf between the two roofs, traverse the hanging slab leftwards (the crux, 10a with sparse pro). This eventually leads into Yak Crack's upper dihedral, although it is possible to continue hard left to gain the 5.11a fingercrack variation to Yak Check pioneered by Croft and Foweraker.
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