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> Yak Peak
Madness
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Yak Peak
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All in the Family T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Clyde and Isabelle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Coquihalla Honey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0 |
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East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Reality Check T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Wind Walker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade III |
| GPS: | 49.6067, -121.10389 |
| FA: | D. Serl, G. Creighton 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,278 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Aug 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Large Rockfall
Details
There was a large rockfall from Yak Peak on July 28, 2022. The extent of damage to routes or which routes have been affected is not yet known. Until more information is known it's best to stay away from the area. This will be updated when additional details are available.
Description
A bold route with lots of runout climbing and loose rock, but a nice line.
Start right of the start of Reality Check and solo endless low-angle slabs to 5.7 for about 300m (following a ramp that breaks through the band of overhangs) up and right to gain the ledge at the base of Porcelain Chicken.
Now climb the dihedral right of Porcelain Chicken for 6 long pitches to the same ledge that P.C. finishes on. Instead of doing the same (or sane) thing, however, continue upwards through crumbly, granular rock and loose rock (crux, sandbag 5.9) for several unpleasant pitches until the climbing eases off to slab scrambling and the summit.
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