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Routes in Yak Peak

Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft, Grade III
FA: D. Serl, G. Creighton 1987
Page Views: 422 total, 4/month
Shared By: Dru on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

A bold route with lots of runout climbing and loose rock, but a nice line.

Start right of the start of Reality Check and solo endless low-angle slabs to 5.7 for about 300m (following a ramp that breaks through the band of overhangs) up and right to gain the ledge at the base of Porcelain Chicken.

Now climb the dihedral right of Porcelain Chicken for 6 long pitches to the same ledge that P.C. finishes on. Instead of doing the same (or sane) thing, however, continue upwards through crumbly, granular rock and loose rock (crux, sandbag 5.9) for several unpleasant pitches until the climbing eases off to slab scrambling and the summit.

Location

Rightmost dihedral on the SE face.

Protection

Full rack of nuts, heavy on the small to RP size, and a moderate amount of cams. Long slings may help with rope drag.

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