Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Yak Peak

Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clyde and Isabelle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0
Coquihalla Honey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0
East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft, Grade III
FA: D. Serl, G. Creighton 1987
Page Views: 469 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Aug 14, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A bold route with lots of runout climbing and loose rock, but a nice line.

Start right of the start of Reality Check and solo endless low-angle slabs to 5.7 for about 300m (following a ramp that breaks through the band of overhangs) up and right to gain the ledge at the base of Porcelain Chicken.

Now climb the dihedral right of Porcelain Chicken for 6 long pitches to the same ledge that P.C. finishes on. Instead of doing the same (or sane) thing, however, continue upwards through crumbly, granular rock and loose rock (crux, sandbag 5.9) for several unpleasant pitches until the climbing eases off to slab scrambling and the summit.


Rightmost dihedral on the SE face.


Full rack of nuts, heavy on the small to RP size, and a moderate amount of cams. Long slings may help with rope drag.


- No Photos -


More About Madness