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Routes in Yak Peak

Beckey route/Speedway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
CardiYak Rhythm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
East Face Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hole in My Heaven T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Porcelain Chicken T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reality Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
SOMWOW - Seven One Move Wonders Of the World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Southwest Gully T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Yak Check T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yak Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 17 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Rob Birtles, Lyle Knight and Gary Wolkoff, Sept. 2014
Page Views: 1,965 total · 47/month
Shared By: Dru on Sep 15, 2014
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

A four year project from Lyle, Gary and Rob finally reaches fruition.

This route climbs sustained slabs and flakes between Reality Check and Hole in My Heaven. It reaches Yak Crack at the top of that route's 8th pitch, then climbs left of the finish of that route, and right of the upper pitches of Reality Check/Yak Check, to the summit.

The grade can be reduced to 10c A0 by yarding on bolts through the cruxes. The bolts are significantly closer together on this one than on Reality Check.

Location

Begin about 80 m right of Reality Check, near the start of Madness. The route can be rappelled (12x60m rappels) or take the standard walk off.

Protection

Most pitches are bolted, but 6 pitches take gear. All stations are fixed.

Photos

Excellent and very sustained route. A lot more full on friction and microedging than the neighboring Yak Check. There is definitely some kitty litter here and there, particularly on end of P9 and P10 as well as the 3 top-out pitches but otherwise the rock is excellent. The 5.11 bits seemed sandbagged but are easily yarded through. The fingertip corner on P11 was particularly spectacular, have the leader bring a camera on that one. Jul 9, 2017
Chai
Philadelphia, PA
 
Chai   Philadelphia, PA
 
First off, it's clear that the route developers put a ton of work, and a fair bit of money, into this project, so THANKS!
The route is very well bolted wherever gear can't be had.
Some notes on the topo:
We took a rack to #4 as per the topo's suggestion, with doubles in the 00-2.5" range, and no #5 cam. We never felt like we wanted the #5, and felt that the double rack was overkill. If we climbed this route again, we'd probably just take doubles of very small cams, up to 0.3 or 0.4 BD X4, though even that is not essential, we did most, if not all of the route without using any doubles.
We found that the first belay can be reached using a 60m rope without simul-climbing (we didn't pay much attention to the next two pitches' length, as we were moving together, but we're pretty sure the next two pitches are also possible with a 60m and no simulclimbing).
Most pitches required relatively little (or no) gear placement, but the 5.10a's above raps #4 and #12 were mostly gear.
Finally, note that the rock on much of the route is rather crumbly. If you climb this route on a weekend, you might be putting those passing below you (hikers, climbers) in danger. We pulled off quite a few large chunks, had holds collapse under our weight or grip, etc. Jul 29, 2015

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