Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 17 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Rob Birtles, Lyle Knight and Gary Wolkoff, Sept. 2014
Page Views: 5,349 total · 42/month
Shared By: Drew Brayshaw on Sep 15, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A four year project from Lyle, Gary and Rob finally reaches fruition.

This route climbs sustained slabs and flakes between Reality Check and Hole in My Heaven. It reaches Yak Crack at the top of that route's 8th pitch, then climbs left of the finish of that route, and right of the upper pitches of Reality Check/Yak Check, to the summit.

The grade can be reduced to 10c A0 by yarding on bolts through the cruxes. The bolts are significantly closer together on this one than on Reality Check.

Location Suggest change

Begin about 80 m right of Reality Check, near the start of Madness. The route can be rappelled (12x60m rappels) or take the standard walk off.

Protection Suggest change

Most pitches are bolted, but 6 pitches take gear. All stations are fixed.

A single rack from .3 to #4 Camalot is enough. 

Photos

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