Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rumney Ice Climbs

Select Area...
5.8 Crag 
Apocalypse Wall 
Beyond Infinity Wall 
G Spot 
Hendrix & Lee (Upper Darth Vader) 
Hinterlands 
Infinity Wall 
Jobsite, The 
Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall 
Main Cliff Right 
Orange Crush Crag 
Parking Lot Wall 
Summit Ledges (Utopia area) 
Triple Corners 
Wonderland 

Rumney Ice Climbs 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.80188, -71.8343 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 58,090
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 31, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Mike Garrity climbing an apparently unnamed
gull...

Description 

Obviously the best thing at Rumney is sport climbing but the ice at Rumney is really fun. And much closer if you are coming from the south (and most people are) than the more popular ice areas.

The down side to ice climbing at Rumney is the same as the up side: southern exposure. On the down side the sun can bake the ice off the rock fairly quickly. The up side is it will keep you nice and warm compared to the north-facing cliffs that get more attention. However, a few cloudy cold days can build the ice up well enough to put up with the sun for a few days at a time. Bottom line is that Rumney is worth making a trip to in the winter to climb some ice. I find there is always something to climb in January and February even early March. Other months are hit or miss.

The classic lines on ice to name a few are: Geographic Factor 5 (THE BEST), Selsun Blue 4, The Cave Route 3, Center Fold 3, among other great flows.

There are mixed climbing opportunities all over but remember to be respectful of the sport routes and don't damage holds with tools and crampons. If you are not sure if it's OK to climb something with ice gear...IT'S NOT.


Getting There 

Many of the cliffs at Rumney host some ice. They will be listed individually.


Climbing Season


45 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rumney Ice Climbs:
Prestor John   WI4     Ice   Hinterlands
Scottish Gully   WI3     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
Crows Nest Gully   WI3+     Ice, 60'   Hinterlands
Apocalypse Left   WI3-4     Ice   Apocalypse Wall
Learning Disabilities   WI4     Ice   Main Cliff Right
Barbados   WI5     Ice, 65'   Parking Lot Wall
Shaelyn's Way   WI5     Ice, 65'   Parking Lot Wall
Selsun Blue   WI4     Ice   Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall
The Cave Route   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall
Franky Lee   WI4+     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
Centerfold   WI3     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
The Meadow Flows   WI2-3     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
Geographic Factor   WI5     Ice   Hinterlands
Browse More Classics in Rumney Ice Climbs

Featured Route For Rumney Ice Climbs
Franky Lee in pretty average conditions....

Franky Lee WI4+  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Parking Lot Wall
This is the obvious flow about 100 feet left of Centerfold...a very pretty, interesting, steep climb.... Unfortunately, it is often in kind of unstable or questionable condition.... Even when fat, it tends to be candled and pro can be tricky, but it's there if you look....It is pretty much a straight shot to the trees as you work over and around bulges and icicles....You will find fixed rap rings on a tree at the top....You can toprope it; however, consideration would be appreciated in...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Rumney Ice Climbs Slideshow Add Photo
Rumney in Winter
Rumney in Winter
Casey, down from his 3rd lead ever.
Casey, down from his 3rd lead ever.
nasty spring ice on the right side of Bonsai.  Looks like it is good in the winter though.
nasty spring ice on the right side of Bonsai. Loo...
my dad (ernie) on the cave route...
my dad (ernie) on the cave route...
the rock route Long Board looking like an ice route top to bottom...  <br /> <br />has this been done as an ice climb?
BETA PHOTO: the rock route Long Board looking like an ice rout...
The lunch cave
The lunch cave
Don't worry, I was seconding, and had already half un-screwed it.
Don't worry, I was seconding, and had already half...
Comments on Rumney Ice Climbs Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 18, 2014
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 27, 2010

thanks for the update Eric... looks like the weather is supposed to get pretty cold in the next few days... i think the ice will be back soon...

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jan 27, 2010

I'm hoping so, but quite frankly I'm enjoying the rock climbing a little too much right now.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 27, 2010

im with you there... but it seems we arent out of winter for another couple months... the good news is you can do good ice and good rock in the same day at rumney!

By twellman
Jan 29, 2010

Im thinking of trying ice at Rumney this Sunday, Jan 31, but not sure how the conditions are going to be after the recent rain we had. If anyone had some info on the current ice conditions, it would be greatly appreciated!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 30, 2010

Im not sure what it looks like now, but i know 3 days ago, rumney ice was almost destroyed, with that being said it has been freezing the last two days, but dont know if it has made a full recovery. Selsun Blue(as pictured in E Thatcher's post above) was completely gone 3 days ago and nothing seemed safe, but i havent been out there since so it might have made a recovery.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 1, 2010

got out today and the ice seemed to have made a pretty good recovery... everything that gets fat was fat...

we climbed at hinterlands mostly everything was perfect! and FAT... Geo was in super mellow condition...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 6, 2010

Was in Rumney today, I looked up and Selsun Blue, the Cave Route, and the parking lot wall ice seemed to be in really good, the left most routes at parking lot wall might be a little thin but possible.

By Russ Keane
Feb 18, 2014

Ice climbing at Rumney is sooooooooooooooooooooo awesome!!!!

Conditions were FAT on 2/16/14