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Routes in Hinterlands

Crows Nest Gully WI3+
Geographic Factor WI5
Go Deep or Go Home WI2 M2
Prestor John WI4
Prestor Pillar WI5-
Type: Ice
FA: Brian Brodeur and Tim Gotwols 1978
Page Views: 3,531 total, 27/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

On the right side of the Hinterlands in the winter, you will find an impressive flow of ice pouring from a basaltic dike. This is Geographic Factor, Rumney's most classic ice climb. It's about 100 feet tall with varied climbing, the bulk of the business coming in the middle.

Starting out, it's hard to tell how steep it is, but as you climb the awkward first half of the route in a corner next to a rock face, you see the pillar looming above you. At about 50 feet you can rest in a cave, place some killer gear and get ready to get pumped. Exit the cave and climb the super steep pillar and try to be quick about it. It gets pumpy. After about 20 feet of steep you get a stance on normally sun baked ice. 20 feet of moderate climbing leads to a tricky but not too hard exit bulge.

Super exposed positioning and interesting climbing make this one a must do!!!

Location

When you get to the Hinterlands walk right.

Protection

A full rack of screws.
Piton in the corner down low, may be covered in ice.
Fixed sling and ring anchor on the tree at the top.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
it all depends on conditions... normally its like glenn describes but ive been on it when it wasnt quite ready and it was solid 5+ and when it was fat and pegged out and felt like a grade 4... in any case it is super fun and not easy :) Dec 5, 2012
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
 
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
 
The crux column is over hanging for about 2 body lengths, great route! Dec 5, 2012
Bababata
Oakland, CA
Bababata   Oakland, CA
How is this a WI5? Looks like a 30 ft section of almost vertical ice. Is the camera angle deceptive? Looks really fun, though! Dec 5, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
here is a very simple video of the climb...
youtube.com/watch?v=GVSmyIg… Feb 2, 2010