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Routes in Orange Crush Crag

Jaws T WI5
Type: Trad, Ice, 50 ft
FA: Bradley White, Tom Bowker, 1987
Page Views: 1,004 total · 10/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 24, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Climb up W3 ice 20ft. and put in some strong protection as high up as you can and long sling it. Step down until you can mount left onto the wide free standing pillar. Climb vertically diagonal up and left until you run out of ice equal height to the two screws. Screw curtain and move left. Again go up and protect yourself under the ceiling before exiting left. Dry point exit onto flat belay ledge. Dry pointing when I ice climbed wasn't a terminology and it included creative aid. It's straight forward ice climbing until there is no more ice. Last of the ice is fragile and aid was used to place the pin. There are no cramped inclining ceiling moves on this dry pointing across, just vertical traversing on ice, That's not easy. Rarely in thick enough to climb.
It was the pinnacle of my experience at leading ice. Aid was used in placing the medium large Tri-cam high, beyond any tool placement and then the pin I used to safeguard and weighted, before I mantled off the climb. The practical joke was on me, the pin came out in Tom's hands seconding. If he had a problem with this climb, it was afternoon sunlight in his eyes. It is better to do this one in the morning.

Location

Furthest right side of Orange Crush wall, adjacent to a ramp on the right.

Protection

Ice screws, trad gear especially useful to me was the large Tri-cam I put into the ceiling before exiting the climb. Don't forget some long slings. There is a fist crack here (top of rock route 'Buried Treasure') that is climbable to the top of cliff. We rappelled off of stoppers.

Photos

bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
the ice flow has weakened towards the curtain and increased to join the gully ice. Plenty of the jaw is out there to keep the climb venturesome. Bolts I would have clipped them had they been there. Thanks for sharing your pictures. Mar 6, 2015
Mark NH
03053
Mark NH   03053
Watched Will lead this yesterday walking down from Learning Disabilities - was impressive to watch and was one damn good lead! Mar 2, 2015
will ar
San Antonio, TX
 
will ar   San Antonio, TX
 
Climbed this route today and it was in great shape. After reading Bradley's description and looking at his photo I think we did a slightly different variation. There are now two bolts on the roof for a rock route which can be clipped if you want to traverse over directly from the top of the pillar and up to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Mar 1, 2015
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Needs some better photos. Jan 9, 2015
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
A really impressive FA and IMHO one of Rumneys hardest ice climbs. Apr 2, 2013
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Yes, and it goes further left to finish past Fish Hooks (according to Ward's guidebook map and route descriptions). Jan 27, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Is this between the rock climbs Captain Hook and Purple Microdot? Jan 6, 2013

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