Type: Trad, Ice, 50 ft
FA: Bradley White, Tom Bowker, 1987
Page Views: 1,235 total · 10/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 24, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up W3 ice 20ft. and put in some strong protection as high up as you can and long sling it. Step down until you can mount left onto the wide free standing pillar. Climb vertically diagonal up and left until you run out of ice equal height to the two screws. Screw curtain and move left. Again go up and protect yourself under the ceiling before exiting left. Dry point exit onto flat belay ledge. Dry pointing when I ice climbed wasn't a terminology and it included creative aid. It's straight forward ice climbing until there is no more ice. Last of the ice is fragile and aid was used to place the pin. There are no cramped inclining ceiling moves on this dry pointing across, just vertical traversing on ice, That's not easy. Rarely in thick enough to climb.
It was the pinnacle of my experience at leading ice. Aid was used in placing the medium large Tri-cam high, beyond any tool placement and then the pin I used to safeguard and weighted, before I mantled off the climb. The practical joke was on me, the pin came out in Tom's hands seconding. If he had a problem with this climb, it was afternoon sunlight in his eyes. It is better to do this one in the morning.

Location

Furthest right side of Orange Crush wall, adjacent to a ramp on the right.

Protection

Ice screws, trad gear especially useful to me was the large Tri-cam I put into the ceiling before exiting the climb. Don't forget some long slings. There is a fist crack here (top of rock route 'Buried Treasure') that is climbable to the top of cliff. We rappelled off of stoppers.

Photos