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Routes in Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall

Cave Route, The WI3
Selsun Blue WI4
Venus Flakes* T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WI4+ M5- PG13
Type: Ice, 75 ft
FA: Chris Hassig & Bob Pike
Page Views: 2,560 total · 19/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 1, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Follow the gully to the right all the way, and you will find the cool unique ice of The Cave Route....
Starting out on a steep grade 3 bulge, you will gain a rest ledge and step right to easier ice.... This section is where the route gets its name, as you climb you will have rock at your back, the fatter the ice the tighter the space you are climbing in.... At the top, you step back left and tackle one more steep bulge.... There is a tree at the top with rap rings....

A very fun climb.... I'd call it a must do....


Far right climb in the gully...Hard to miss....


Ice screws, or, if you prefer, bring some rock gear. There are opportunities for rock protection in many places on the route....
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Perfect #1 placement in bottom of rock fin that makes up the beginning of "the cave" Mar 25, 2009
Ted Sumers  
i traversed left to the anchors of some sport climb at the top.

this is probably one of the most reliable lines at rumney, as it is nicely shaded by the cave... Jun 3, 2013

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