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Owl Tor
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Punch 
Auto Magic 
Better Than Life 
Chips Ahoy 
Gala Gala Happy 
Hai Karate 
Happy to be Here 
Hell of Being Crushed Alive, The 
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 
Natural, The 
Old Pro Skill, The 
Old Shatterhand 
Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power"), The 
Rubble 
Spearmint Rhino 
Strictly Ballroom 
Terrible Angel 
When The Sea Doesn't Want You 
White Cougar 

Owl Tor 


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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: steve edwards on Jun 17, 2004

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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The pristine beauty that is the Tor.

Description 

The sportsman's paradise of the central coast. Steep burly routes of a manufactured nature on a fairly blank but very overhanging wall. The most purely physical climbing on the West Coast, Owl Tor has about a dozen route from 5.12 to 5.15. There is an 11d warm-up, but everyone calls it a sandbag.

Weather? The area around Santa Maria is subject to some extremes—freezing to sweltering—but the Tor is almost always climbable, even in 100+ degree heat. In heavy rain years, however, seepage eventually makes its way down the face of the crag, sliming pockets and jugs and creating a generally swampy environment. Still, you can often climb in a full-on downpour and have the smug satisfaction that you are probably the only person on the Central Coast climbing outside on dry rock.


Getting There 

From Santa Barbara, take the 101 North to Santa Maria, then exit the 166 and drive East. After about thirty minutes or so, take a left off of hwy 166 at Rock Front Ranch. Drive through a gate (usually open, unless it has rained a bunch) and go for about a quarter of a mile till the road suddenly shoots steeply up a hill. Park on the left. A small trail on the left will deposit you at the base of the crag after about 3 minutes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Owl Tor:
Happy to be Here   5.10d     Sport, 40 feet   
Spearmint Rhino   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
The Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power")   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
When The Sea Doesn't Want You   5.12a     Sport   
Anchor Punch   5.12a     Sport   
Auto Magic   5.12a     Sport, 30 feet   
White Cougar   5.12b     Sport, 70 feet   
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners   5.12b     Sport, 60 feet   
Old Shatterhand   5.12d     Sport   
The Old Pro Skill   5.12d     Sport   
Chips Ahoy   5.12d     Sport, 60 feet   
Hai Karate   5.12d     Sport   
The Hell of Being Crushed Alive   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Rubble   5.13b     Sport, 30 feet   
Better Than Life   5.13c     Sport, 60 feet   
Gala Gala Happy   5.13d     Sport   
Strictly Ballroom   5.14a     Sport, 60 feet   
Terrible Angel   5.14+     Sport, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Owl Tor

Featured Route For Owl Tor
Normal Guy showing the kids how it is done with a double knee bar. Bambino and Big Easy turn away in disgust.

Auto Magic 5.12a  CA : Central Coast : ... : Owl Tor
Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Owl Tor Slideshow Add Photo
Someone said I look like Warren Harding in this photo.

Someone said I look like Warren Harding in this ph...

Much time is spent moving rocks. What? You don't do that on Saturday?

Much time is spent moving rocks. What? You don't d...

Owl Tor Baby Rattler

Owl Tor Baby Rattler

Owl Tor Tarantula

Owl Tor Tarantula

Crux of Hell

Crux of Hell

Me on the Chips Ahoy-Better Than Life linkup, 5.13a.

Me on the Chips Ahoy-Better Than Life linkup, 5.13...


Comments on Owl Tor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brennen T
From: SLC,Utah/Roseville, california
Feb 11, 2013

I wasted my time bringing a set of quickdraws, everything is fixed? im a fan of fixed draws but this place is crazy hahaa

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 12, 2013

Beware rattlers during the Spring months! Check carefully amongst the boulders before you settle in to a belay stance. This last week was kind of gnarly.