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DescriptionThe sportsman's paradise of the central coast. Steep burly routes of a manufactured nature on a fairly blank but very overhanging wall. The most purely physical climbing on the West Coast, Owl Tor has about a dozen route from 5.12 to 5.15. There is an 11d warm-up, but everyone calls it a sandbag. Getting ThereFrom Santa Barbara, take the 101 North to Santa Maria, then exit the 166 and drive East. After about thirty minutes or so, take a left off of hwy 166 at Rock Front Ranch. Drive through a gate (usually open, unless it has rained a bunch) and go for about a quarter of a mile till the road suddenly shoots steeply up a hill. Park on the left. A small trail on the left will deposit you at the base of the crag after about 3 minutes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Owl Tor:
Happy to be Here 5.10d Sport, 40 feet
Spearmint Rhino 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
The Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power") 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
When The Sea Doesn't Want You 5.12a Sport
Anchor Punch 5.12a Sport
Auto Magic 5.12a Sport, 30 feet
White Cougar 5.12b Sport, 70 feet
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 5.12b Sport, 60 feet
Old Shatterhand 5.12d Sport
The Old Pro Skill 5.12d Sport
Chips Ahoy 5.12d Sport, 60 feet
Hai Karate 5.12d Sport
The Hell of Being Crushed Alive 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Rubble 5.13b Sport, 30 feet
Better Than Life 5.13c Sport, 60 feet
Gala Gala Happy 5.13d Sport
Strictly Ballroom 5.14a Sport, 60 feet
Terrible Angel 5.14+ Sport, 60 feet
Featured Route For Owl Tor
Auto Magic 5.12a CA : Central Coast : ... : Owl Tor
Steep (per the Tor), pocketed (per the Tor), physical (per...) climbing to a burly crossover finish on strenuous finger pockets. Tons of fun. There's a trick kneebar halfway up, but try not to let any of the locals catch you using it (heh, heh). The climb starts on some long moves off of imbedded cobblestones, pulls a small roof, then travels past some bigs holds that are far apart. If you aren't pumped, charge the last sequence of finger pockets and fire for a hidden jug just past the chains....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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