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Owl Tor

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Punch 
Auto Magic 
Better Than Life 
Burly Shuffle 
Chips Ahoy 
Eudemonic 
Gala Gala Happy 
Hai Karate 
Happy to be Here 
Hell of Being Crushed Alive, The 
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 
Natural, The 
New Shatterhand 
Old Pro Skill, The 
Old Shatterhand 
Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power"), The 
Rubble 
Spearmint Rhino 
Strictly Ballroom 
Super Crack 
Terrible Angel 
When The Sea Doesn't Want You 
White Cougar 

Owl Tor 


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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: steve edwards on Jun 17, 2004
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Owl Tor Tarantula

Description 

The sportsman's paradise of the central coast. Steep burly routes of a manufactured nature on a fairly blank but very overhanging wall. The most purely physical climbing on the West Coast, Owl Tor has about a dozen route from 5.12 to 5.15. There is an 11d warm-up, but everyone calls it a sandbag.

Weather? The area around Santa Maria is subject to some extremes—freezing to sweltering—but the Tor is almost always climbable, even in 100+ degree heat. In heavy rain years, however, seepage eventually makes its way down the face of the crag, sliming pockets and jugs and creating a generally swampy environment. Still, you can often climb in a full-on downpour and have the smug satisfaction that you are probably the only person on the Central Coast climbing outside on dry rock.


Getting There 

From Santa Barbara, take the 101 North to Santa Maria, then exit the 166 and drive East. After about thirty minutes or so, take a left off of hwy 166 at Rock Front Ranch. Drive through a gate (usually open, unless it has rained a bunch) and go for about a quarter of a mile till the road suddenly shoots steeply up a hill. Park on the left. A small trail on the left will deposit you at the base of the crag after about 3 minutes.


23 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',11],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Owl Tor:
Happy to be Here   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
The Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power")   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Spearmint Rhino   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Auto Magic   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 30'   
When The Sea Doesn't Want You   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport   
Anchor Punch   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport   
White Cougar   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 70'   
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 60'   
Hai Karate   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport   
The Old Pro Skill   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport   
Chips Ahoy   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Old Shatterhand   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport   
The Hell of Being Crushed Alive   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Rubble   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 30'   
Better Than Life   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a     Sport, 60'   
Strictly Ballroom   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Owl Tor

Featured Route For Owl Tor
Paul on Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12), Owl Tor. <br />Photo Tom Slater

Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  CA : Central Coast : ... : Owl Tor
The biggest holds you'll ever fall off of. A true Owl Tor 5.12 endurance testpiece, Hell (as it is affectionately known) consists of powerful lateral throws, lunges, matches, and cross-overs, then finishes with a highly non-trivial crux. An attentive belayer will mitigate the potential ground-fall at the end, but the prospect of smacking the slab beneath you is still a bit hair-raising. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Owl Tor
Photos of Owl Tor Slideshow Add Photo
Owl Tor Baby Rattler
Owl Tor Baby Rattler
A rare siting of Turbo The Owl (and Owl Tor in the full sun)
A rare siting of Turbo The Owl (and Owl Tor in the...
Much time is spent moving rocks. What? You don't do that on Saturday?
Much time is spent moving rocks. What? You don't d...
The pristine beauty that is the Tor.
The pristine beauty that is the Tor.
Someone said I look like Warren Harding in this photo.
Someone said I look like Warren Harding in this ph...
Tom challenged everyone to a Strong Person Contest. He won.
Tom challenged everyone to a Strong Person Contest...
OWLTOBERFEST
OWLTOBERFEST
Phil manning the martini bar at Owltoberfest 2013.
Phil manning the martini bar at Owltoberfest 2013.
2013 Owltoberfest T-shirt
2013 Owltoberfest T-shirt
Crux of Hell
Crux of Hell
Phil crosstraining for Gala
Phil crosstraining for Gala
Me on the Chips Ahoy-Better Than Life linkup, 5.13a.
Me on the Chips Ahoy-Better Than Life linkup, 5.13...
Martinis & Owl Tor. Always Classic.
Martinis & Owl Tor. Always Classic.
Comments on Owl Tor Add Comment
Show which comments
By John M Ross
Feb 11, 2013

I wasted my time bringing a set of quickdraws, everything is fixed? im a fan of fixed draws but this place is crazy hahaa

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 12, 2013

Beware rattlers during the Spring months! Check carefully amongst the boulders before you settle in to a belay stance. This last week was kind of gnarly.

By Bob Banks
Oct 2, 2013

Vintage footage of The Owl Tor and The Castle on ESPN.

Featuring:
"Hollywood" Hans Florine (so cool he gets his nickname in FRONT of his real name) on The Natural and Chips Ahoy
Phil "Bambino" Requist on Strictly Ballroom

Unfortunately I can't be there for the first Owltoberfest, but this is my contribution.

Hans Florine at Owl Tor and The Castle - ESPN 1995

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