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The sportsman's paradise of the central coast. Steep burly routes of a manufactured nature on a fairly blank but very overhanging wall. The most purely physical climbing on the West Coast, Owl Tor has about a dozen route from 5.12 to 5.15. There is an 11d warm-up, but everyone calls it a sandbag.
From Santa Barbara, take the 101 North to Santa Maria, then exit the 166 and drive East. After about thirty minutes or so, take a left off of hwy 166 at Rock Front Ranch. Drive through a gate (usually open, unless it has rained a bunch) and go for about a quarter of a mile till the road suddenly shoots steeply up a hill. Park on the left. A small trail on the left will deposit you at the base of the crag after about 3 minutes.
21 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Owl Tor
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Owl Tor:
Happy to be Here 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 40'
The Power Of Eating (a.k.a. "Power") 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Spearmint Rhino 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Auto Magic 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 30'
When The Sea Doesn't Want You 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport
Anchor Punch 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 60'
White Cougar 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 70'
Old Shatterhand 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport
The Old Pro Skill 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport
Chips Ahoy 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 60'
The Hell of Being Crushed Alive 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Rubble 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 30'
Better Than Life 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 60'
Strictly Ballroom 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a Sport, 60'
Featured Route For Owl Tor
Hell of the Upside Down Sinners 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b CA : Central Coast : ... : Owl Tor
The biggest holds you'll ever fall off of. A true Owl Tor 5.12 endurance testpiece, Hell (as it is affectionately known) consists of powerful lateral throws, lunges, matches, and cross-overs, then finishes with a highly non-trivial crux. An attentive belayer will mitigate the potential ground-fall at the end, but the prospect of smacking the slab beneath you is still a bit hair-raising. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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