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The Overlook

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Elevation: 6,400 feet
Latitude: 35.8264  Longitude: -106.1803 
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Saw this on steepandcheap.com, 2/25/08. I wonder w...


Description 

An enjoyable basalt, mostly sport climbing crag that also offers some nice gear-protected crack climbs, the Overlook is generally regarded as the finest crag at White Rock. The Overlook used to host the annual Meltdown Outdoor Climbing Comp (which hasn't taken place the last few years), and out-of-town vistors presenting slideshows for the LA Mountaineering Club were frequently taken to this crag for a day of climbing.

There are two sides to the Overlook--a northwest aspect and a southeast aspect so climbing can be done year round. Warm winter days are awesome on the southeast side. Almost all climbs have bolted anchors, included the gear-protected crack climbs.

Most cracks were toproped in the 70s, with bolted routes put up in the 80s and no more new route potential really exists, although the original White Rock bolting agreement (1989) along with the amended agreement (2004) allows for new bolted face climbs to be established at the Overlook [per this agreement, establishing new bolted routes is not permitted at some of the other White Rock "trad" cliffs].


Getting There 

From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for .8 mile or so and turn left at the well-signed Overlook Park. This park is loaded with soccer and baseball fields. Park at very end of the road at the round-about at the scenic Overlook view point. Follow the spiny, exposed ridge trail NE left the Overlook view point and descend to the next shelf. You'll be on top of the climbing cliff. A good climber's trail heads south (right) and down to the base of the southeast cliff on your left. The first bolted climb you'll find is Bosker Boozeroo.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Overlook:
(06) Headwall Crack Left   5.8     Trad, TR, 55 feet   South/East side
(16) Polly's Crack   5.8+     Trad, TR, 60 feet   South/East side
(24) Box Overhang Left   5.9-     Trad, TR, 55 feet   South/East side
(11) Cholla Crack   5.9     Trad, TR, 50 feet   South/East side
(08) Headwall Crack Right   5.9     Trad, TR, 50 feet   South/East side
(12) Holy Wall   5.10a     Sport, TR, 55 feet   South/East side
(03) Overlard (aka Foops)   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   North/West side
(10) Cholla Wall   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, TR, 55 feet   South/East side
(03) Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be)   5.10b     Sport, 55 feet   South/East side
(06) Huecos Rancheros   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   North/West side
(14) Dave's Face   5.10c     Sport, TR, 60 feet   South/East side
(09) Just Say No To Jugs   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   North/West side
(01) Bosker Boozeroo   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   South/East side
(04) Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   North/West side
(25) Len's Roof   5.11b     Trad, TR, 55 feet   South/East side
(15) Way Beyond Zebra   5.11b     Sport, TR, 65 feet   South/East side
(05) Paul's Boutique   5.11b     Sport, 55 feet   South/East side
(09) Double Vision / Ream Dream   5.11c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   South/East side
(29) Thorazine Dream   5.11d     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   South/East side
(20) Face Off   5.12a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   South/East side
Browse More Classics in The Overlook

Featured Route For The Overlook
George Perkins warming up on Heucos Rancheros

(06) Huecos Rancheros 5.10c  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : North/West side
Crank some entertaining moves past some large rounded jugs up a short overhanging wall. Harder than it looks, but its over quick. The crux is between bolts 2 and 4. Retro bolted by one of the FAs in 1999 because of many near grounders that occured....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM