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Routes in North/West side

Biomechanoid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chocolate Thunder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Citizen of Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crisis In Utopia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D'Antonio Approach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dangle Your Participle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammertime S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Huecos Rancheros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No To Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lubme S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Overkill S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlard (aka Foops) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overlichen S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overloord S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Primal Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Putterman Gully Jump S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Route 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 8 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Pocket Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toprope face (unknown) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vanilla Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vasoconstrictor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
View with a Room S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

The often shady and cooler area at The Overlook. One can escape the summer's heat and enjoy numerous bolted sport routes.

This side of the Overlook isn't as popular as the east side because it's shorter and it can be difficult to reach the anchors from the top to set top ropes on some of the climbs. The bolted routes are high quality, as is the crack climb Crisis in Utopia, so a visit to the North Side of the Overlook is definitely worthwhile, but the first time visitor to the Overlook should stay probably on the Main Wall.

Getting There

Follow directions for reaching the main Overlook area. Once at the South/East side, continue hiking north along the base of the wall and around the point to your left.

Bolted Climbs, from Left to Right

(courtesy of Daniel Trugman; crack climbs in between not listed)

View with a Room 5.11b
Overloord 5.11a
Overlard (aka Foops) 5.10a
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 5.11b
D'Antonio Approach 5.12a
Huecos Rancheros 5.10c
Route 7 5.11d
Route 8 5.12a
Just Say No To Jugs 5.11a
Vasoconstrictor 5.12b
Dangle Your Participle 5.10c
Overlichen 5.11a
Chocolate Thunder 5.11d
Hammertime 5.12b
Citizen of Time 5.11d
Primal Scream 5.12a
Overkill 5.11a/b
Lubme 5.12a
Biomechanoid 5.12a
Putterman Gully Jump 5.10a

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North/West side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Very true. Well, thank you George as well for the awesome and quick administrator action! Dec 12, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I give all the credit for the update to George Perkins. He's a very attentive administrator! Dec 10, 2008
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Thanks Jason! Happy climbing. Dec 9, 2008
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
Some of the directions for which routes are which are a bit confusing, and many routes are missing. Seeing as I've only climbed one route on the wall, I don't think it would be prudent for me to add these missing routes. However, the following list consists of the bolted routes on the NW side, from left to right, according to Beverly's Jemez Rock. I hope this helps, and feel free to correct any inaccuracies...

1. View with A Room 5.11b
2. Overlord 5.11a
3. Overlard 5.10a
4. Overripe Fresh Squeezed California Females 5.11b
5. D'Antonio Approach 5.12a
6. Huecos Rancheros 5.10c
7. Unknown 11d
8. Unknown ?
9. Just Say No to Jugs 5.11a
10. Vasoconstricter 5.12b
11. Dangle Your Participle 5.10c
12. Overlichen 5.11a
13. Chocolate Thunder 5.11d
14. Hammertime 5.12b
15. Citizen of Time 5.11d
16. Primal Scream 5.12a
17. Overkill 5.11a/b
18. Lubme 5.12a
19. Biomechanoid 5.12a
20. Putterman Gully Jump 5.10a Dec 1, 2008

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