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Routes in North/West side

Biomechanoid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chocolate Thunder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Citizen of Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crisis In Utopia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D'Antonio Approach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dangle Your Participle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammertime S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Huecos Rancheros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No To Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lubme S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Overkill S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlard (aka Foops) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overlichen S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overloord S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Primal Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Putterman Gully Jump S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Route 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 8 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Pocket Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toprope face (unknown) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vanilla Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vasoconstrictor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
View with a Room S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill
Page Views: 74 total · 1/month
Shared By: Wa3lt on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb choss to a bouldery start on top of a chossy block tower, as for Overkill, then left after 2nd bolt. Follow the overhanging prow with small pockets on the left and sidepulls right of the arete, with a reachy crux on a strange highstep to a horizontal crack after the 2nd-to-last bolt providing the crux.

This climb is shaded, even in summer evenings.

Location

Primal Scream is just right of the nice-looking crack Crisis in Utopia. The start as the same as for Overkill, but go left after the 2nd bolt.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. (The guidebook says 5 bolts but there are 6.)

The 2-bolt anchor at the top doesn't have chains or slings to rappel from. Carefully, step over to the anchor for Overkill, or reach down from the top edge to get your gear.

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