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Routes in North/West side

Biomechanoid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chocolate Thunder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Citizen of Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crisis In Utopia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D'Antonio Approach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dangle Your Participle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammertime S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Huecos Rancheros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No To Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lubme S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Overkill S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlard (aka Foops) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overlichen S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overloord S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Primal Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Putterman Gully Jump S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Route 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 8 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Pocket Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toprope face (unknown) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vanilla Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vasoconstrictor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
View with a Room S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rick Smith and Lee Sheftel, 1989
Page Views: 1,255 total, 10/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Aug 29, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Crank some entertaining moves past some large rounded jugs up a short overhanging wall. Harder than it looks, but its over quick. The crux is between bolts 2 and 4. Retro bolted by one of the FAs in 1998 because of many near grounders that occurred.

Location

This is the third bolted line to the right (west) of Overlard.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt chained anchor

Photos

Luke Hetrick
Los Alamos
  5.10d
Luke Hetrick   Los Alamos
  5.10d
I was rather disappointed with this climb as it had a 3 star rating. I was expecting a fun, challenging route and mostly I just found it to be challenging.

It could have just been the heat of the day but I found that the majority of the holds were just slimy with chalk to the point where it made it difficult for me to use the holds. I found the best holds were ones not used by previous climbers because of this reason. I did manage to struggle up the climb and found it to be very sequency (as I plain just avoided some holds like the plague). I found the crux to be clipping bolt 4 as the holds below that bolt were horrible and the holds just above were just slightly more usable. Generally speaking this has been my least favorite in the Overlook Area. Jun 6, 2016