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Crisis In Utopia [Edit]
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 6
votes
Routes in North/West side
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Biomechanoid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chocolate Thunder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Citizen of Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Crisis In Utopia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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D'Antonio Approach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dangle Your Participle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hammertime S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Huecos Rancheros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Say No To Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lubme S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Overkill S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Overlard (aka Foops) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Overlichen S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Overloord S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Primal Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Putterman Gully Jump S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Route 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Route 8 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sandy Pocket Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toprope face (unknown) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Vanilla Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vasoconstrictor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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View with a Room S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | Peter Gram and Susie Murphy |
| Page Views: | 1,179 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Description [Edit]
This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!
Location [Edit]
This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.
Protection [Edit]
Medium stoppers, a double set of Aliens, and a few runners, get you to a two bolt chained anchor.
Santa Fe, NM