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Routes in North/West side

Biomechanoid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chocolate Thunder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Citizen of Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crisis In Utopia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D'Antonio Approach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dangle Your Participle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammertime S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Huecos Rancheros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No To Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lubme S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Overkill S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlard (aka Foops) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overlichen S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overloord S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Primal Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Putterman Gully Jump S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Route 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 8 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Pocket Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toprope face (unknown) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vanilla Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vasoconstrictor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
View with a Room S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Peter Gram and Susie Murphy
Page Views: 1,179 total · 9/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description [Edit]

This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!

Location [Edit]

This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.

Protection [Edit]

Medium stoppers, a double set of Aliens, and a few runners, get you to a two bolt chained anchor.

Photos

Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
 
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
 
This crack is the best one I have done at The Overlook, and is definitely one of the best at its grade in all of White Rock. Jul 8, 2008

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