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Crisis In Utopia
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 6
votes
Routes in North/West side
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Biomechanoid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chocolate Thunder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Citizen of Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Crisis In Utopia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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D'Antonio Approach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dangle Your Participle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hammertime S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Huecos Rancheros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Say No To Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lubme S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Overkill S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Overlard (aka Foops) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Overlichen S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Overloord S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Primal Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Putterman Gully Jump S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Route 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Route 8 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sandy Pocket Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toprope face (unknown) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Vanilla Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vasoconstrictor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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View with a Room S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | Peter Gram and Susie Murphy |
| Page Views: | 1,190 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
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Description
This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!
Location
This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.
Santa Fe, NM