Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North/West side

Biomechanoid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chocolate Thunder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Citizen of Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crisis In Utopia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
D'Antonio Approach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dangle Your Participle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammertime S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Huecos Rancheros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Just Say No To Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Say Yes To Fingercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lubme S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Overkill S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlard (aka Foops) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overlichen S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overloord S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Primal Scream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Putterman Gully Jump S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Route 7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 8 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Pocket Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toprope face (unknown) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (crack left of Overlord) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (crack right of Overlard) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vanilla Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vasoconstrictor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
View with a Room S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Cameron Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990
Page Views: 103 total, 1/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The crux is off the deck on thin crimps up an overhang to some nice rounded pockets on a vertical face/arete section to a sweet exit. If you step over left at the bottom (crux), the route probably goes at 5.10b.

Location

This is the first bolted line to the right of Overlard.

Protection

4 bolts and 2 fixed slings to a 2 bolt chained anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
The 2 slings are currently fixed on this climb (5/09); with these in place, it's very well-protected.
Update 2/2014: These slings are a bit ratty; and the lower one appears partially torn and I personally wouldn't want to fully trust it as ground fall is a possibility if it were to fail. Maybe they're ok, but it is probably best if they're replaced. As Jason mentions above, a climber relatively solid at the grade might feel okay with the situation. May 19, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Tried this one for the first time today. I remember seeing fixed slings - or rather a fixed sling - at one point, but they were gone today. Didn't feel all that uncomfortable though - the second bolt is a bit high and if you were to peel while clipping you'd deck. Other than that, it's 4 moderately spaced bolts, which means bigger air if you catch it, but the falls are clean. Feb 22, 2009
Just looking through my notes: The bolts for this were placed on lead...I'd returned to NM after doing the California trad thing....(no flipping idea about the tie offs, though). Cam Apr 18, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
 
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
 
Someone has removed and not replaced the fixed slings, so be careful because it is now an R rated lead. Aug 30, 2007