This is a great route with varied climbing. Approach as for Solar Slab Gully, but head left and along a ledge system before reaching the base of the gully. Squeeze past a couple of trees to the base of the first pitch.
P1- (5.6) Go up a short dihedral and step left at a chockstone. Continue up past a bolt and up the face to a nice belay ledge below the chimney. It also looked possible to step into an easy chimney shortly after the bolt which leads to the same belay ledge.
P2- Enter the obvious chimney and climb up past a bolt (5.9). Exit the chimney, and head up the great dihedral above (5.9). Step left at the top to a two bolt belay.
P3- Climb up and right across the slab above (5.5 no pro) and continue up through intermittent cracks to the large terrace below Solar Slab. This pitch was a full 60m.
Either descend Solar Slab Gully from here or finish the day on Solar Slab.
My favorite Solar Slab start. The 5.9 section is short and well protected - sort of a mini-Epinphrine. The layback is really sweet too. It's really just a 1 pitch climb though - nothing of note on the 1st or 3rd pitches.
John
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 29, 2004
One #4 Camalot (or equivalent) provides additional reassurance while pulling through the awkward crux on the second pitch.
Try the arete variuation to the second pitch. It goes out to the left arete (bolted) and returns to the crack above the chimney crux move then takes the standard line up the lie back. It's about 5.9 with some bolts, a 2" cam, two slings on horns
Expanding on the previous comment-- there is a mostly independent variation immediately to the left of the standard route. Begin in a small dihedral just to the left of the big corner. A few feet below the roof, step to the right to reach easy face climbing in the vicinity of the bolt on the standard route. From here, go straight up, then follow the arete for pitch 2. I don't know any FA details, but I refer to this route as "Beulah's Pamphlet" because it is smaller than the book...
Indeed the bomb bay crux section on p2 protects well with an old style #4 Camalot. I found the new style C4 Camalot #4 to be a little on the small side and wished I had brought my C4 #5 instead.
This is a great route. The second pitch is long and classic. We climbed this to get to solar slab. The combination makes for a very memorable climb.
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO Apr 26, 2007 rating: 5.9
This is a great route. If you liked Epinephrine - or you're thinking of doing Epinephrine - you should definitely try this route. It's very fun, and is easier than it looks.
We did this route as a start to Sunflower and thought the linkup was great fun.
Solar Slab - Lower Tier
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