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Mt. Russell
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Select Route:
Bloody Corner  
East Arete 
Fishhook Arête 
Mithril Dihedral 
Star Trekkin' 
Western Front 

Mt. Russell 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,088'
Lat, Long: 36.59, -118.291 Map
Page Views: 113,472. Good page?   
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: M.Morley on Mar 5, 2006

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Routes on Mount Russell - with descent for Mithril...

Description 

At 14,088 ft (4,294 m), Mt. Russell is the 7th highest peak in California, and one of 15 above 14,000' in the state.


Getting There 

Approach from Whitney Portal via the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. This is the same approach used for the East Face, East Buttress, and Mountaineer's Routes on Mt. Whitney.

If overnighting, you must obtain a wilderness permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek by following a specific set of procedures outlined on the forest service's website.

Allow about 5 hours from Whitney Portal to Iceberg Lake if carrying full packs with overnight gear.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Russell:
East Arete   3rd     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   
Fishhook Arête   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Mithril Dihedral   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   
Bloody Corner    5.10     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   
Star Trekkin'   5.10b/c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   
Western Front   5.10c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Russell

Featured Route For Mt. Russell
The line of Western Front

Western Front 5.10c  CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell
This route is a link up of a couple routes on the west face of Russell. All I can say is it takes the BEST looking line on the west face, right directly up the center. Beyond that the photos will have to suffice for locating the route. After a little scrambling to reach the base of the crack, you pull up into the system proper. The crux is these moves pulling around a little bulge on some grainy rock. Follow this system for a pitch to some ledgy terrain. Cross some weird stuff to the left to gai...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Mt. Russell Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Russell.  The Fishhook Arete follows the line from the highest point (top center of picture, just catching sunlight), down the sweeping knife-edge ridge.

BETA PHOTO: Mt. Russell. The Fishhook Arete follows the line ...

Mt Russell

BETA PHOTO: Mt Russell

Contemplating Mt. Russell from the summit of Whitney

Contemplating Mt. Russell from the summit of Whitn...

Diana at the west side of the south face, Mithral Dihedral and Fishhook Arete prominent.

BETA PHOTO: Diana at the west side of the south face, Mithral ...

The East Ridge and North (or Northeast) Face of Mt. Russell.

The East Ridge and North (or Northeast) Face of Mt...

Mt. Russell from the summit of Whitney

Mt. Russell from the summit of Whitney

Mt. Russell as seen from the summit of Whitney

Mt. Russell as seen from the summit of Whitney

"L Shaped Pass" is the flat area to the left.

"L Shaped Pass" is the flat area to the left.

The use tail and scree slope below the south face.  Taken from the "L Shaped Pass".

The use tail and scree slope below the south face....

Mt. Whitney and Mt. Russell from the top of the steep talus approaching Russell's East Ridge

Mt. Whitney and Mt. Russell from the top of the st...

Nearly 360 panorama from the East Summit of Russell.  In the center of the photo is Whitney.  To the right of Whitney in the foreground is the West (true) Summit.  What a breathtaking scene it was!

Nearly 360 panorama from the East Summit of Russel...

Mt Russell from Iceberg Lake

Mt Russell from Iceberg Lake


Comments on Mt. Russell Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Sep 20, 2010

There is an alternate approach via the "Cartwell Variation" which continues past Upper Boyscout Lake. The was originally used to approach the East Ridge. Continue on a use trail past the right of Upper Boyscout. Keep going past an alpine lake, again passing on the right, and around a scree slope until you meet a slabby buttress. You can climb the slabby buttress at Class 3+ or continue on the faint tail. In either case you eventually work your way high under the south face of Russell heading for the "L Shaped Pass".

It is shorter than the Iceberg approach but the scree below the south face is truly heinous. 3/4 of the way through it I swore never to do it again (similar oaths have been uttered on the Whitney-Russell Col). In truth, both ways are kinda brutal.

Where I think this variation truly shines is getting down to Upper Boyscout in the event the East Ridge isn't an option. This happened to a partner and I due to a heavy dusting of snow on the upper reaches. East Ridge was a death trap, so we went back via Iceberg. This would have been a much better way down.