|North (Left) Face
Clip the first bolt of Jabberwocky and bust right and upwards past 2 more bolts through some sequency moves, then pass 3 more bolts to the mid anchors and a great rest. Rest up (for longer then you think you need to) and continue past 6 more bolts on 2 finger pockets that get you pumped for the final steep finish. While there is a sequence that will make this feel easy, figuring it out while pumped is difficult. While most of the tower 12b's might be easy for the grade this one is solid. To the first anchors is Rubber mission 6 bolts also 12b.
Shares start and first bolt with Jabberwocky. Between Jabberwocky and Mad Hatter
12 bolts + anchors. A 60m works with about 5 feet to spare. Tie a knot in the end.
Linda making the long pull up and around the arete
Linda pulling onto the upper face of the lower hal...
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fun route! The rest at the first anchors detracts a bit, but the route would be much, much harder without it! Definitely not over until you clip the (second set of) chains!
To help mitigate rope drag on the tough finish, it's helpful to back-clean as much as possible or use long draws/slings on the lower part.