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Catherine on El Chivo - its surprisingly steep
This newish sport climb is located in the small cove directly behind (east of) Billboard buttress and 40' left of the route White Trash. Good protection with fun moves make this a worthwhile addition to the area - especially on those cold and windy days that can get your goat.
A small cam (.5") can be placed before the first bolt and additional pro (2-2.5") is possible after the last bolt if desired. The climb has been done on toprope straight up from the first bolt at 5.10+ as well.
4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"); optional pro to 2.5"
Unknown climber approaching the anchors. Photo by...
BETA PHOTO: "El Chivo".
Photo by Blitzo.
Having some fun on El Chivo!!
Photo by Blitzo.
Photo by Blitzo.
Al Sanderson at the crux of El Chivo.
Aaron Lawrence leading "the Goat"
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2005
As well, you can go driectly upward from the big arching flake after bolt #2, to the last bolt. This way is steep and significantly harder than the line as bolted, but is fun.
Jan 29, 2005
I did the route recently with locker, and i really enjoyed it.. leading it would be a bitch if you were under 5'9. its somewhat height dependant, but dont let that discourage you from going to do it.. seeings that you can set a top rope anchor if you carefully go up the gully to the right (as your coming in from the road you will see the anchors and to the right there is a gully) your shoes will definatly be needed, as are some cams an over the shoulders (to get over to the bolt and pins safely) put there are 3 good anchor points up top, 1 good 3/8 bolt and 2 glued in pins (both are good) all with rings on them. I belive that there is 3-4 bolts on the face for leading it
great route, hope this is some helpfull info
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 11, 2005
I took a small group of beginners out on this one again today and really enjoyed it... The crux has a nice move that requires good balance and finesse for an easier rated route... I see where Chris has mentioned that additional pro can be placed so on and so forth... Personally I see no reason for it. I have led this thing many times (never fell yet though) and do not feel the need for any other pro other than what is on the rock already... It is a well thought out route and protected nicely...
|By Bo Johnston|
Feb 22, 2006
Climbed this route after seeing it on the rap from White Trash. It was really fun and climbed easier than it looked!
Sep 18, 2006
A fun route!
|By Darren D.|
Mar 25, 2007
An OK route to do to impress all the tourist on-lookers. Just smile for their camera. Balance is all you really need for the positive edges.
|By Dave Daly|
From: Temecula, CA
Dec 3, 2007
I agree...it is a fun route. It would be an even finer route if the rock quality was better. Half the route is kitty litter. Even though I'm 6'1" and felt that it was challenging 5.8, my wife and partner is significantly shorter (5'4") and found moving to from the left facing flake to the medium flatish hold below the 3rd bolt was truly height dependant, thus I felt that as a whole, this route should be a soft 5.9.
Jan 11, 2010
good route to do if your leaving the camp grounds
From: So San Francisco
Feb 27, 2010
Super fun and easy, very close to the road. Great warm up or warm down.
|By Aaron Lawrence|
Dec 31, 2011
just spent 2 days camped in front of this route(space #1). i went up the crack to the right and set top rope(take your gear, you will need it). i really liked this route alot, fun moves. i agree that taller climbers have the advantage here. everyone i met there agreed its more a 5.9 than a 5.8