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Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Abandoned project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Debbie Does Donuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Chapo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Chivo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sean Penn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Val De Mello S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, January 2016
Page Views: 802 total · 30/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 15, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is a tightly bolted sport climb located just right of Val de Mello, with an interesting mix of delicate and strenuous movement.

Sean Penn meets El Chapo at a 2-bolt anchor.


Located on the right end of the Bilbo Buttresses, on a small tower/pillar.


6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

From the 6th bolt move left and up to the last bolt of Val de Mello for a slightly longer pitch (7 bolts total).


Still cleaning up but a good route. Boulderado is substantially harder at the same grade. Jan 19, 2016
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Did this route Sunday--TR then lead. When you're top roping it, make sure you set a directional on the top two bolts. I found the crux to be a little bit reachy for me at 5' 7" which made it feel legitimately 10d. Taller people may find it easier. This is a fun route--I highly recommend it. Jan 20, 2016
Interesting features on this one. Wish I would have known about the left variation when I did it. Jan 30, 2016
Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
Solid route. You definitely want a directional on the top 2 bolts. I Tr'ed it without and had to fight the pendulum trying to get back on route after peeling at the crux. Mar 8, 2016

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