Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, January 2016
Page Views: 976 total · 27/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 15, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a tightly bolted sport climb located just right of Val de Mello, with an interesting mix of delicate and strenuous movement.

Sean Penn meets El Chapo at a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

Located on the right end of the Bilbo Buttresses, on a small tower/pillar.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

VARIATION:
From the 6th bolt move left and up to the last bolt of Val de Mello for a slightly longer pitch (7 bolts total).

Photos

Murf
  5.10d
Murf  
  5.10d
Still cleaning up but a good route. Boulderado is substantially harder at the same grade. Jan 19, 2016
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10d
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
  5.10d
Did this route Sunday--TR then lead. When you're top roping it, make sure you set a directional on the top two bolts. I found the crux to be a little bit reachy for me at 5' 7" which made it feel legitimately 10d. Taller people may find it easier. This is a fun route--I highly recommend it. Jan 20, 2016
Tradiban  
 
Interesting features on this one. Wish I would have known about the left variation when I did it. Jan 30, 2016
Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
Solid route. You definitely want a directional on the top 2 bolts. I Tr'ed it without and had to fight the pendulum trying to get back on route after peeling at the crux. Mar 8, 2016