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> Bilbo Buttresses
Sean Penn
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 25
votes
Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses
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Abandoned project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Debbie Does Donuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Debbie Does Everyone T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Done with Debbie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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El Chapo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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El Chivo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nitty Gritty T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sean Penn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Val De Mello S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09338, -116.15583 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, January 2016 |
| Page Views: | 2,608 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 15, 2016 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a tightly bolted sport climb located just right of Val de Mello, with an interesting mix of delicate and strenuous movement.
Sean Penn meets El Chapo at a 2-bolt anchor.
VARIATION:
From the 6th bolt move left and up to the last bolt of Val de Mello for a slightly longer pitch (7 bolts total).
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