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Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Abandoned project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Debbie Does Donuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Chapo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Chivo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sean Penn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Val De Mello S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 727 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The moves are better than the rock itself, which tends toward gritty.

This is the low-angle crack system prominent on the Bilbo Buttress, leaning left and jumping between the 3 crack systems along its way. Starting from the ground, one can use the various cracks to make a B-line for the anchors on El Chivo, and bring up your second.

Not a bad line, but no distination, for sure.

Protection

A standrad rack. The route is probably PG, because a few palcements are a little tricky and there is some flaky/gritty rock to avoid.

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