Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Chris Baumann, January 2016
Page Views: 1,576 total · 44/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 15, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Climb the south buttress of the pillar starting 30 feet down and right right from Sean Penn.

El Chapo meets Sean Penn at the 2-bolt anchor.

Location

On the far right end of the Bilbo Butresses, on a small pillar/tower.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
  5.6
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
  5.6
Led this Sunday and found it to be pretty easy--maybe 5.6. It's fun and gets you to the anchor for Sean Penn. Jan 20, 2016
William Riley
Langley
  5.7
William Riley   Langley
  5.7
An enjoyable sport climb. Easy to find. Good holds, well placed bolts. Pretty simple, pretty fun. Feb 21, 2016
Billy B.  
 
Great climb for taking people who want to do their first Joshua Tree sport lead! Bolts are really well placed. The only problem is the rock isn't the greatest quality, but hopefully it will clean up with some traffic. Nov 27, 2016
Rob L
  5.7
Rob L  
  5.7
Climbed on Nov 20 2018 and the last bolt on this route was in very bad shape. 0/10 would not whip on that sucker, needs replacing. Nov 21, 2018
Bob Gaines
  5.7
Bob Gaines  
  5.7
Thanks Rob, I've put it at the top of my list for bolt replacement. Nov 21, 2018
Rob L
  5.7
Rob L  
  5.7
Thank you Bob, we all appreciate your efforts out there. I taped an X over the bolt, my apologies if that isn't what you guys prefer we do. Nov 25, 2018
Bob Gaines
  5.7
Bob Gaines  
  5.7
The loose bolts have been replaced, hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association.

If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, check them out at safeclimbing.org Nov 29, 2018