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Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Abandoned project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Debbie Does Donuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Chapo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Chivo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sean Penn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Val De Mello S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford, Doug Zeissner & John Thackray, December 1989
Page Views: 1,088 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

OK, maybe it was just me, but I thought this line was hard for its given grade of 10b. Around to the right of Bilbo Buttress, one can find this short line of bolts, centered on an tiny, odd, 'ramp' feature near the climb's base. Climb up and onto this and beyond. The crux was a weird combination of balance and friction that was a little unpleasant for a J-tree warm up or welcome, and felt sandbagged. None the less, the climb had merit in teaching what is possible on that rock compared to what I am used to in other areas.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (Watch the first clip!)

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
  5.11a/b
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
  5.11a/b
Thanks, Richard, for fixing up the anchor;....and good job on the climb too......it's a tough one......I remember being way scared on the FA......hand drillling for stances all pooped out and gripped.... Dec 29, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.10d
Richard Shore  
  5.10d
I'll throw down for .10d/11a on this one. Challenging technical slab/face moves around the second bolt.

The anchor was a bit messy - it appears that people were rapping off only one bolt based on the setup I observed. I re-equalized the chain and links on two bolts for the rappel. Note - the rappel is off the backside of the formation. Dec 29, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
  5.11a/b
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
  5.11a/b
This climb is 5.11. It's hard. Tony is correct. It is under-rated at 5.10c. (Sorry about that...) Mar 29, 2007