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Routes in The Bilbo Buttresses

Abandoned project TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Debbie Does Donuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
El Chapo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
El Chivo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sean Penn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Val De Mello S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
White Trash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Cyndie Bransford & John Thackray 12/89
Page Views: 1,037 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is not bad, but it's too short to be very good. Maybe it has some merit as a way of getting to the top of the rock to establish a TR on Val De Mello? In any case, out on the far right end of the Bilbo Buttress, there is a notch between the end towers. In that nothch, on the right hand side there is a hand and fist crack, should you scramble up to it (or just scramble up it). One can scramble off or retreat from anchors above Val De Mello.

Protection

A set of cams or a few hexes in the larger sizes

Photos

Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
An OK, short 5.6. Sep 18, 2006