Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Cyndie Bransford & John Thackray 12/89
Page Views: 1,182 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This route is not bad, but it's too short to be very good. Maybe it has some merit as a way of getting to the top of the rock to establish a TR on Val De Mello? In any case, out on the far right end of the Bilbo Buttress, there is a notch between the end towers. In that nothch, on the right hand side there is a hand and fist crack, should you scramble up to it (or just scramble up it). One can scramble off or retreat from anchors above Val De Mello.

Protection

A set of cams or a few hexes in the larger sizes

Photos

Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
An OK, short 5.6. Sep 18, 2006
Rob L
 
Rob L  
 
The descent on this route was a little tricky. I didn't see an obvious walk off or scramble. Unfortunately the anchors for Val De Mello are on the other side of the face so you cannot lower off them (and it's super awkward to bring up a second on them, as I unfortunately found out). Instead, one could build a gear anchor in the crack at the top to climber's left, then use the Val De Mello anchor to rap.

Between the mediocre climbing and the difficulty getting back down, I'd say skip this one. Nov 21, 2018