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El Chivo

5.8, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 83 votes
FA: Todd Gordon, Grant Hiskes, Derek Reinig, Steven Powers
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Cam… > Bilbo Buttresses

Description

This newish sport climb is located in the small cove directly behind (east of) Billboard buttress and 40' left of the route White Trash. Good protection with fun moves make this a worthwhile addition to the area - especially on those cold and windy days that can get your goat.

A small cam (.5") can be placed before the first bolt and additional pro (2-2.5") is possible after the last bolt if desired. The climb has been done on toprope straight up from the first bolt at 5.10+ as well.

Protection

4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"); optional pro to 2.5"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

El Chivo.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] El Chivo. Photo by Blitzo.
Catherine on El Chivo - its surprisingly steep
[Hide Photo] Catherine on El Chivo - its surprisingly steep
Aaron Lawrence leading "the Goat"
[Hide Photo] Aaron Lawrence leading "the Goat"
Al Sanderson at the crux of El Chivo.
[Hide Photo] Al Sanderson at the crux of El Chivo.
El  n00b!<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] El n00b! Photo by Blitzo.
Having some fun on El Chivo!!
[Hide Photo] Having some fun on El Chivo!!
"El Chivo".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "El Chivo". Photo by Blitzo.
Unknown climber approaching the anchors.  Photo by Susan Wong.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber approaching the anchors. Photo by Susan Wong.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] As well, you can go driectly upward from the big arching flake after bolt #2, to the last bolt. This way is steep and significantly harder than the line as bolted, but is fun. Jan 9, 2005
jacob
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I did the route recently with locker, and i really enjoyed it.. leading it would be a bitch if you were under 5'9. its somewhat height dependant, but dont let that discourage you from going to do it.. seeings that you can set a top rope anchor if you carefully go up the gully to the right (as your coming in from the road you will see the anchors and to the right there is a gully) your shoes will definatly be needed, as are some cams an over the shoulders (to get over to the bolt and pins safely) put there are 3 good anchor points up top, 1 good 3/8 bolt and 2 glued in pins (both are good) all with rings on them. I belive that there is 3-4 bolts on the face for leading it

great route, hope this is some helpfull info Jan 29, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I took a small group of beginners out on this one again today and really enjoyed it... The crux has a nice move that requires good balance and finesse for an easier rated route... I see where Chris has mentioned that additional pro can be placed so on and so forth... Personally I see no reason for it. I have led this thing many times (never fell yet though) and do not feel the need for any other pro other than what is on the rock already... It is a well thought out route and protected nicely... Nov 11, 2005
Bo Johnston
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route after seeing it on the rap from White Trash. It was really fun and climbed easier than it looked! Feb 22, 2006
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] A fun route! Sep 18, 2006
[Hide Comment] An OK route to do to impress all the tourist on-lookers. Just smile for their camera. Balance is all you really need for the positive edges. Mar 25, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] I agree...it is a fun route. It would be an even finer route if the rock quality was better. Half the route is kitty litter. Even though I'm 6'1" and felt that it was challenging 5.8, my wife and partner is significantly shorter (5'4") and found moving to from the left facing flake to the medium flatish hold below the 3rd bolt was truly height dependant, thus I felt that as a whole, this route should be a soft 5.9. Dec 3, 2007
[Hide Comment] good route to do if your leaving the camp grounds Jan 11, 2010
beachplus4
So San Francisco
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun and easy, very close to the road. Great warm up or warm down. Feb 27, 2010
Aaron Lawrence
Redlands
  5.9
[Hide Comment] just spent 2 days camped in front of this route(space #1). i went up the crack to the right and set top rope(take your gear, you will need it). i really liked this route alot, fun moves. i agree that taller climbers have the advantage here. everyone i met there agreed its more a 5.9 than a 5.8 Dec 31, 2011
Trevor Roberson
Joshua Tree, California
[Hide Comment] Is this a rappel descent or walk off? Mar 11, 2018
mike cummings
29 Palms, CA
[Hide Comment] @Trevor rappel. Mar 12, 2018
[Hide Comment] Did this route OS last spring, really fun!
The bonus is now 6 months later realizing my cousin Derek helped put it up!!! :) Oct 29, 2018