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Beginning last pitch. Photo courtesy John Dickey, ...
A great three pitch on Chasm View Wall, NOT on the Diamond. A good training route for the more committing lines of the Diamond, takes significantly less time to approach and descend (depending on descent taken). Approach Mills Glacier but instead of climbing the North Chimney to Broadway continue North on the glacier. Scramble up easy grassy ledges to beneath the middle of Chasm View Wall. Continue up and right to the bottom of an obvious grassy ledge beneath the right facing dihedral.
P1: Climb the inside of the corner to a belay on a flake below a small slot/roof above (5.7-5.8). (If you climb outside flakes further to the right you will be in 5.9-10d terrain).
P2: Climb up through the slot and lieback and jam to another stance before another flake (5.9).
P3: Lieback up the flake and into a a 9+ squeeze protected by a couple bolts. Climb easier terrain past flakes to a belay ledge below the final pitch.
P4: Climb up the widish crack to the crux overlap/roof, keep the grin on your face as you ascend the clean crack to the top (5.10a). This pitch isn't THAT wide. A single span of Camalots to #4 seemed adequate, doubles would be more than adequate. It's an abrupt feeling as you top out onto the horizontal terrain at the edge of the Boulderfield. One can continue via the N. Face at Chasm View or...
Three descent options: 1) Boulderfield trail, 2) Chasm View and Broadway/North Chimney Raps or 3) Camel slide (look to the East for a large block that resembles a kneeling camel on the ridge between Chasm View proper and Mt. Lady Washington. Go south towards the Camel and work down and east across the slopes of Mt. Lady Washington to grassy ledges at the head of a scree gully. Follow the gully SW into the Chasm Lake cirque).
Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot.
Last pitch seemed easy compared to the squeeze.
BETA PHOTO: Starting the first pitch (and the infamous ass sho...
BETA PHOTO: Mike working off the 2nd pitch.
The start of the squeeze chiminey on the 3rd pitch...
The comfy yet tight belay stance for the fourth pi...
Mike entering what we thought was the crux of the ...
BETA PHOTO: Directissima route.
Eric Rosenblum on Directissima.
Greg starting P3. There's an airy section moving r...
Greg near the top of the last pitch.
Yager finishing out the last pitch.
Jesse pulling some steep, enjoyable face moves on ...
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Florence, AZ
Jun 30, 2001
We hauled a little pack on the chimney pitch and I highly recommend this-- the squeeze/ow is quite continuous and since it steadily gets narrowing, a trailing pack would probably get stuck a lot. This 5.9+ pitch is at least as hard as the crux pitch, with fewer rests--consider putting your stronger leader on it. Also consider a #4 Friend for the OW, as an [old style] #4 Camalot is too big. The gear beta in the above description is otherwise great. Don't plan on trusting any of the old bolts.
I placed a very comforting rp at the crux of the last pitch. I was really happy to have that piece!
Although it is less commiting and shorter, I felt this route was considerably harder than the Casual Route.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 12, 2001
The P3 crux is where the chimney narrows into an evil fist crack. Your lower body will be in the squeeze while your hands jam the fist crack. As Charles mentions, a #4 Camalot is too big for this part, so I'd advise taking a #3 and #3.5 Camalot.
Thankfully, the fist crack is only about 10' long. If you have big hands, you can hand jam here and you will find it a bit easier than someone with small hands. Still, it is much more physical than the supposed "crux" on the 4th pitch.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 8, 2001
Much like Pervertical Sanctuary, the easier-rated offwith pitch is the true crux of this route, and the stronger climber should lead it.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2003
I agree the P4 crux is short, but there is a lot of 5.9 above there. The first time I attempted the route, I was past the crux when it started raining. I was gunning for the top but started freaking from all the water, and it not getting easier. I eventually lowered off a stopper and we ended up rapping the whole route. I returned some years later and finally did the last 50'. The final crack is also often wet early season, even when it is not raining.
|By John Ringoen|
Aug 7, 2003
Just did the route yesterday. We found the "easy grassy ledges" getting up to the base of the route to be fairly exposed 4th class (at least where we went). Being timid, middle-aged dads, we roped up. Agreed, Directissima is classic (ignoring the marginal, dirty first pitch)! For us too, the crux was the grunt-a-rama P3 squeeze chimney, and it's meat-grinder fist crack. Another party stuck a #4 Camalot at the end of the chimney, just waiting for extrication by a dedicated booty hunter.
|By Thomas Jensen|
Jun 27, 2004
What an OUTSTANDING route!! It's hard to find a climb at this level that is so continuously interesting pitch after pitch. I just kept wondering when it was going to ease off. Really consistently fun top to bottom with good pro. I climbed a harder dihedral to the right for our first pitch and then traversed over when I saw all of the slings. It felt hard! Anyone know what it is? We climbed the last pitch in the snow on June 27th! Crazy
|By David A. Turner|
Jul 12, 2004
Our rack seemed perfect. RPs to large stoppers. 3/4" Alien to 3.5 Camalot, with extra 1, 2, 3, 3.5 Camalots. This is a must do route. If you are considering doing a Chasm View Wall Route, do this one first. Way better than Red Dihedral. I have not done Royal Flush, but from watching others on it and talking with friends who have, it looks like one good pitch in a sea of ho-hum pitches.
|By Kevin Stricker|
From: Evergreen, CO
Aug 16, 2004
As of 8/15/04 there are 2 fixed #4 Camalots in the slot on pitch 3. I agree with David in that a #4 Camalot is not necessary and a #4 Friend or 2 would protect this pitch (especially with the 2 fixed #4 Camalots in place). Do not be frightened off by the reputation for wideness as the offwidths on this climb are not that hard. The final pitch is AWESOME with interesting rock features, great exposure, and a perfect top out.
|By Dr. Dan|
Sep 4, 2005
[Climbed] the route yesterday in beautiful fall/summer conditions. A gift [of] a day. P2-4 were 5*. Led P3 and would agree that both P3 and P4 are equally challenging, you just work harder on P3. Don't think P3 is just about the [squeeze] or that P4 is just about the 10b crux, they are both solid from the deck to the [anchor]. FIXED Gear: There are 2 Met #4 in the [squeeze]. The first is about 15 feet up and is in good shape. The 2nd #4 is near the top of the [squeeze] and is twisted back and has the webbing cut off. The pin at the exit is a rusty 1/4" bolt with the hanger swinging in the wind. The truth is you don't need any of the fixed gear and you can solidly protect the [squeeze] if you are carrying any combination of 4 cams in the Met #3 to 3.5 range.
|By Anders Fridberg|
Jun 12, 2006
We climbed this route on 6/10/06. The two number four Camalots stuck on pitch three are still there, but no webbing left. So, if you want to use them, bring some spectra cord to replace the webbing, or just girth hitch as a modern chockstone. Of course my oxygen deprived European sport climbing mind did not come up with this by itself but got this tip from some guy (Ralfi?) on the descent as he was hiking up to send the Cable Route in his Tevas. Spectacular route.
|By Mike Munger|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 31, 2006
Aug 30, 06 Excellent route with quality climbing from bottom to top. I would probably avoid the first jungle pitch and do one of the harder (cleaner) variations to the left. Both fixed #4 cams are still in place on pitch three and can either be threaded with spectra or slung like a chockstone. There are numerous bolts on this route, presumably from the first ascent in 1960, that are essentially worthless and should be pulled and or replaced. Most of the hangers are the old Gerry 'pry-out' 'Death' hangers and all of the bolts are 1/4" Rawl drives. With modern gear, none of them are necessary, so I would vote for cleaning up the route by removing the bolts and leaving them out.
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Jul 21, 2007
I did this route on July 1. Awesome day, very quiet with only a party on Red Wall. Not one party on the Diamond or Lower East face of Long's. This is a great alpine route with awesome position. The exposure on the last pitch is breathtaking, be sure to look down! Pretty burly line and harder than the Casual Route, so be ready. The fixed #4s are still there. I only bothered slinging the bottom one which made it comfortable to walk my #3.5 Camalot along with me. I had one old #3.5 Camalot and one new #4 Camalot which seemed perfect. You don't need an old #4 size even without the fixed ones.
Please leave the bolts!! They are awesome to see on this classic climb and give a great sense of history. They are worthless for protection but should be left so future parties will have the enjoyment of climbing past them and thinking about what things were like back in the golden age.
|By David A. Turner|
Jul 14, 2008
Yesterday, we used the descent described in the comments section of the Red Wall. It is a much better option than The Camel. The exposed downclimb at the top may be fifth class, but no harder than 5.2.
From: Denver, CO
Jul 14, 2008
The "easy grassy ledges" are quite slippery. Climber beware,and consider wearing your rock shoes (vs. just approach shoes) for this section: I slipped and tumbled down a few ledges. Ouch, and it ended my climbing day and was quite scary. Maybe roping up a bit earlier isn't such a bad idea, as mentioned in that 2003 comment.
Aug 4, 2008
Is the 10c variation to the right of the first pitch done often? We climbed this variation and I had to clean cracks from dirt...but otherwise it is an excellent pitch. The old bolt near the crux at the 10c pitch looks very interesting from historical point of view.
From: Fort Collins
Jul 11, 2009
With a 70m rope, the first two pitches link quite nicely.
Aug 1, 2009
Agreed linking 1 and 2 with a 70m works great, nearly all 70m's are used, just head up for the obvious yellow sling belay.
We laced up our rock shoes at the base of the slab, and pulled many 5.0 moves with no rope to get the base of the climb, didn't see a way get to the base casually. I couldn't get my #4 BD C4 to work well in the squeeze chimney/offwith on the third pitch, instead I used a big old #11 BD hex worked great, FYI there are now 3 fixed 4 so careful with your 4 if you have one pull it after you place your next piece? The #4 BD C4 work great for the short offwidth section on pitch 4.
Don't be intimidated by the roof crux on the fourth pitch I thought the protection was great with a micro cam (metolious 00) and then maybe 5 feet until your next gear placed from a jug. Also bring along extra of the smallest standard nuts, RP's were not necessary.
|By Brent Apgar|
Jul 24, 2011
As of 23 July 2011 there are still 3 fixed #4s in the chimney on the 3rd pitch.
I'd have to agree w/ the previous comments that a couple of old #3.5s would be perfect on the chimney, though I don't know what a new #4 would be like by comparison on the same section.
An unbelievable route.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2011
On the last pitch, to add a kicker at the very end:
Instead of traversing off at the very end, continue up the corner into the black band. The corner gets capped by a roof (visible in the picture in the Gillett guidebook, p.56). Traverse under the roof, and turn it on its left corner.
Why do this? Because you'll be turning a fantastic roof that's overhanging 800ft of air!
[Beta spoiler] The gear is ok, where as the rock is licheny and loose in spots (notably, where you turn the roof), but the pro at your feet is fine (small cams in horizontals, green C3/Black Alien). The roof felt like 5.10 on lead, and my partner thought 5.9 following. [Beta spoiler]
Aug 3, 2012
We combined pitches 1 and 2 with a 60m rope and about 15 feet of very easy simul climbing, but that of course depends on how high you choose to start the roped climbing.
I would definitely bring at least one new Camalot #4 with you. The squeeze chimney protects with new 3s and 4s. Also, slinging the fixed gear like a chockstone kind of blows, so you might bring 3 pieces of 5-6mm cord tied in 8 inch loops to girth hitch the 3 fixed cams where the webbing used to be.
Regarding difficulty, I found p3 to be the crux - no question. We climbed straight up off of the belay at p2 into a shallow, overhanging, right-facing corner, and we both felt the move near the ancient piton (i.e. didn't bother clipping) was spicy and the technical crux. Getting out of the squeeze was definitely the physical crux. By comparison, the "roof" on pitch 4 was a cakewalk with good gear, good feet, and ok hands.
Descent beta: We walked climber's right (east) to the lowest point in the saddle between Long's and Mt. Lady W. There was no cairn at that gully, so I'm not sure it was the correct one. Some exposed and high consequence 5.2-5.4 downclimbing for 40-50 feet on the climber's left side of the gully led to a loose 3rd/4th class scramble down the gully to the obvious (and cairn-marked) grassy ledge system back to the base. Total time less than an hour. I would probably give the raps a try next time.